start low then go higher then
the motors can take more, just don’t overheat them. If the number you set is low you will get errors when you push the throttle going uphill.
adjust if it is not strong enough or too strong. Don’t overheat the cheap flipsky with too many batt amps.
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Ok, I’ll try.
What about the batt regen -20A? Using a Lipo battery I have to charge at 1C (4A in this case) to prevent damage, what I’m missing about charging it 5x amps more?
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where does it say the max charge is 1C
I used that exact pack for my first build. I killed them from heavy abuse.
You don’t have to, you can set it at anything you desire to. I’ve found this makes it a lot better. You won’t be running at your motor max setting very much if at all. Maybe for a second here and there, but definitely not long enough to heat your motor up too much. If your battery maximum was also set that high, then things would be a lot different.
Typically the high regenerative charge rates achieved by smashing the brakes at a high speed will be so ephemeral that they won’t upset the cells.
If sustained, a charge rate that high could definitely be an issue. But once you start braking hard, you immediately begin losing the momentum that would be needed to sustain such hard braking.
In addition, once your cells are discharged even a little bit, like even 99%, it makes this even less disruptive to them.
Looked fine to me.
Maybe read this thread
Sustained high charge rate could definitely be an issue for the Lipo battery. So I’m a little bit worried about ruining the battery. Anyway thank you, I’ll try higher values.
Ok, thank you. I’ll start testing with motor at 80A and battery at 25A later to rise to higher values if needed (where I live it snowed so I’ll have to wait some day).
Few days ago I ordered the Metr Pro module and I can’t wait to check volts/amps in rt while riding my e-longboard. Just to check how the energy is spread and at which rate to make sure I’m not stressing the devices out.
@Fosterqc @b264 could you please help me with this problem too? 
What kind and rating of fuses do you recommend? Are fuses rated for 250V usable for this situation?
For main line I was thinking about this type rated for 100A(?) :
For charge line I was thinking about this two types rated for 10A :
I recommend no fuse on the discharge line, and on the charge port, max_charge_current * 1.25 to max_charge_current * 3
Fuse the charge port directly, not somewhere on the other side of the BMS.
So if you’re going to charge at 4A, then a 7.5A fuse would work. Or a 10A or 5A
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so there are more disadvantages than advantages?
The FlexiBMS is rated up to 10A but I’ll use a charger with 2A charge rate so I’ll go with a 3x option so 6A fuse.
This way with that kind of fuse?
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Well, there have been long discussions on this topic, and both ways have pros and cons.
But me personally, I value my body more than my battery or ESC, so I feel this is safest for body. If something terrible is happening, I at least want to have a chance to hit the brakes before the battery goes nuclear, without a fuse popping and killing any chance I have to save myself.
If built and operated correctly, your current should not be going to levels above that anyway.
That’s the short version.
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What I’m saying is that I would put the fuse on the charge port itself, not somewhere else in the circuit like that.
BMS bypassed with loopkey and discharging with lights/accessories circuit
If your BMS doesn’t have C- or CH-, then connect that wire to P-
beautiful diagrams
Yup, I read some topics about it and I remember this opinion. Ok thanks.
In my case, something like that:
I say nothing 
I bought these, they are ok?
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Looks fine to me
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Good! Please can you also confirm the fuses that I linked?
I didn’t see any links, but these work good for charge ports
for 5A max charging. I epoxy them inside the enclosure somewhere near the charge port and just solder wires to them. If you ever blow it, just epoxy a new one on top of it. Typically they don’t blow, and if they do, then you’ll have fun changing the fuse knowing that you’re not buying a new battery or house.
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Great! Thank you. I actually think I’m going to use the fuse holder ( I really like a clean hw setup ).
What about using a fuse to avoid only a short circuit identifying the device with the lowest amps limit?
For example my VESC can handle 150A (instant peak), so using a 120A fuse might be somehow useful for the electronics? Considering that I don’t expect to set “motor max current” higher than 85-100A.