(don’t know if someone else already posted anything about it) but take a look a this one guys…
…this one says a lot about water resistant… 
Ranger X1 Specs Wheels: AT rubber 6.5inch (165mm) Trucks: Super carve 10inch double kingpin Dimensions: 106cm x 33cm x 17cm Power: (2) 900W In-Hub Motors Range: 21miles or 35km Top Speed: 22mph or 36kph Hill Climbing: Up to 30% Maximum Load: 260lbs or 120kg
Waterproof battery and ESC module…
Double kingpin trucks, minimum turning radius is only 2 meters…
Ive added few pictures of it to the picture thread
Solid board.
Have one in my collection.
Cool!! 
Anyone know what the deck is constructed of?
Canadian Maple.
Thank you. I assume 7-ply?
Yeah looks like 7
My Ranger X1 arrived a week ago. I’ve put under 30 mile on it. In summary, it’s “meh”. But hey, much faster than getting th EXO Pro right?!
If you enjoy 10 mph rides then maybe it’s for you. At my fat weight I maxed out at 17.1mph on flats and it took a while to get there. App said I cruised around at an average of 10mph. Board was smooth and had the torque to get me up slight inclines. I found myself at full throttle often which is something I never do on my builds since I enjoy rides under 25mph. The Ranger was a bit… boring. Comfortable ride. Good flex. Wheels go over most things, but the lack of power was putting me to sleep.
this board doesn’t free roll, unlike usual hub motors, these have a lot of drag. Which means I can’t conserve battery at any point of my ride. Its safe though since letting go of the throttle means I’d come a complete stop pretty quickly😒
This kind of drag and my size meant I would never get that 20+ miles of range that’s advertised. I did 9 miles and the remote vibrates and showed one led meaning the battery is 25% or under. Not that I believed in advertised ranges especially at 210lbs, but this board would really suck when you run out of juice. At almost 30lbs and drag, good luck pushing it.
I’ll recharge and ride a few more times to see if the battery improves and update this if needed. I do like the board though. Just not something I’d ever use in a group ride setting since keeping up would be even harder than usual.
Your range and speed sounds very strange, i got 32km last time i rode it with a top speed of 21.5mph.
I was all geared up with camera gear tripod i was way above 100kg all in.
Yeah. I’m planning to tape my GPS on the deck and do a ride filming it. They told me to loosen the axle nut to see it that’s the issue.
Do you have a lot of drag in the motor wheels? This thing doesn’t free roll which means my throttle is forward at all time
The first 100 or so km the wheels were some what weird in terms of feeling and it had very high roling resitence but after “wearing it in” or what you may call it, it started to roll well enough to the point i could let the throttle go and it would coast for a good few seconds before needing power again.
Almost enough for me to feel okay pushing it.
Good morning, Backfire sent me a Ranger X1 to see what we could do with it handling wise, and I would like to ask the contributors of this thread a couple of questions. First of all, does it go the same speed forward and backwards? I am finding it handles better with the drive wheels up front. Second, is there a phone app to connect to the board to track voltage, temp, etc?
Hi Brad,
I tested my RX1 yesterday and it appears to ride just as fast in reverse. I can’t get it above about 32kph / 20 mph in either direction. I cant tell if it handles better because I had the fronts set looser and did not have my skate tool to readjust everything. Besides it was -7C / 18F and I was too cold to bother playing too much with it.
There is no communication with a phone app. The ESC doesnt use bluetooth to talk with the controller.
I have questions for you. I am 150 lbs and wanted the best/correct Riptide bushing and pivot cup set up to allow me to u turn in under 15 feet while still being stable at 25 mph. Is there a combo that you can recommend for me? I have the stock bushings and washers really loose: both front nuts almost flush with the kingpin (1/16 of the threads showing),and, both rears nuts with about 3/32 of the threads showing.
I have virtually no rebound out of a turn when I slalom. It feels very loose and twitchy at higher speeds (anything about 15 mph).
Thanks
@Alphamail Hey Brad. Glad to see Jerry at Backfire doing more research. He’s been great at communication with me regarding my lemon of a board.
The board goes same speed in both directions. BF has no app for the esc they use but they have a new remote “R2” that has a screen with speedometer and odometer so there’s some sort of communication there.
Personally I use Orangatang’s yellow hard nipple on mine because I’m 210lbs +backpack. I’m glad this thing is on the slow side because the double kingpins are sensitive.
OK, on to our findings with the trucks, I have attached pictures to indicate what we finalized on. For simplicity, I will refer to the bushing positions from roadside to boardside so for the front, F1 is the bushing closest to the road in the front and F4 is the bushing closest to the deck in the front, rear will be the same just designated R1-R4. Also, the position 1-2 are the primary turning pair and position 3-4 are the secondary turning pair.
Front truck F1: KranK 90a Cone (.6" tall) F2: KranK 90a Barrel (.6" tall) F3: KranK 96a StreetBarrel with flat washer for clearance (.5" tall) F4: KranK 96a Barrel (.6" tall) Rear Truck R1: KranK 96a Cone (.6" tall) R2: KranK 96a Barrel (.6" tall) R3: KranK 96a StreetBarrel with flat washer for clearance (.5" tall) R4: KranK 96a Barrel (.6" tall)
For reference, I weigh just about 200 lbs and this worked well for me as well as my son that weighs 140 lbs. We found the key to settling down your trucks is to keep the pair of bushings closest to the deck (F3-4 and R3-4) stiffer than the bushings closer to the road (F1-2 and R1-2). The primary pair should initiate the turn, then the secondary pair should come into play when needed or wanted. We found that the way it arrived, the rear secondary pair turned before the primary pair due to the stiffer shape of the Barrel in position R1. I hope this is not too confusing as there is a lot going on with these trucks. The way we have it setup currently, you can run full speed all day and still have a lot of turn when needed, so agility and stability. Also, our Indy Pivot cups fit the trucks perfectly. 
!
Thanks Brad! This is a truly awesome engineering solution that I would never have arrived at in a million years.
That stock cone in R3 would have left me stumped forever. After all, the OEM meant to put it there for a good reason right? Apparently not…
Their intentions we good and they had the right idea but they did not have access to a short barrel