Raptor 2 | Custom Made Compatible Decks | USA

Welp her she goes. There are already a few boards I’d really love to see powered by the likes of the raptor 2.1 setup. We’ll be acquiring the full raptor kit at some point TBD, and will proceed to put it on a few decks.

The first one I’d love would be this stretched skateboard mold. In DK form, with 7" tails, the deck would be 48". I figure we’ll make the board exactly as wide as the Raptor wheels as they are now…

As pictured: Length 42" Width 10" Wheelbase 26.5" image

Wheel wells would also be included, but haven’t been modeled.

Another deck I’d like to see work, (this one would go great with 100mm wheels, with it’s .5" mandatory riser height.

Specs Length 39" Width 10" Wheelbase 26-27" Kicktail 8" Drops/rocker (.5" combined) Downhill concave (not too steep or deep)


I talked to PNL the other day and he said he still has some 23° baseplates.

This deck would start as a 12 ply deck, and the bottom would have generous material removed on the bottom for the enclosure base to be bolted down.

There are many other ideas I’d love to share, but this is the perfect topic for a shared conversation. We could potentially blow our mind.


@Sender or this


Looks cool. Definitely would prefer the 39" I think


I do think your half an inch riser for 100mm is a rough estimate and it maybe as high as 1 inch on some setups for manuverability or soft setups.

I dont have a raptor but this deck is really nice looking. I love the wheel wells and the nice wide tail.

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This board has a deep concave. The board is thick, and the wheel wells will be deep. I believe based on this and other decks we’ve already built that .5" riser should work with no cut outs. If you check out

This deck has less concave, and shallower wheel wells than this one would, so I think 100mm would be close with a half inch riser, but my bet is that it fits.

This deck would have to have special 3d custom risers, but I think it would be SO cool!


Shape ideas?

Big coffin.
I miss my old coffin double kick

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A short board with a mini kick would be bad ass! Tuck that enclosure right up next to the front baseplate?

It actually already is about as close as it can get both front and rear. Well, the rear relationship is already set, but the front is closer to the main box (corners where wheel bite can occur) and can’t really get much closer. It seems like 26.5" is the minimum acceptable wheel base for this board.

True I see that now. I’m really loving that second deck design.

I’m going to get some parts to you for some tinkering !

pushead-decks-small Something classic maybe


I’ve been waiting for a builder to step in and get him parts

I’m on the inside. Getting parts direct from Enertion.

We’re going to find out just how many of our molds currently can work to make awesome franken-raptors.

Then we’re going to figure out what molds don’t yet exist, but should exist for the raptor.


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Laminated this deck and I am stoked about it. Gonna do something like what has previously been designed. Can anyone speak about ideal sizes for the battery enclosure? IMG_1074 image IMG_1070 IMG_1075


Can you elaborate on what you mean by this question?

Hey hey @drangboards I wanted to see if you’d be open for doing a prototype / test board and the second 39" version you did above that I could buy off of you cause I’d love to get my hands on one of these things and ride my R2 daily so could give you any necessary feedback I learn to help fine tune it too…

Not sure if you could do this as well but one thing that was kind of a pretty big pain when I switched my R2 parts over to my moonshine outlaw deck I’m currently riding (and love with how much better it feels FYI) was making sure that the screw holes on the enclosure and the holes you have to drill through the board to secure the base plate of the enclosure/etray to the deck from the top side is hard to line up exactly, especially with any type of concave. Any error in measuring / drilling can cause it to not fit or be secured properly and/or also cause the enclosure/etray to warp or bend some which we all know on ESK8’s is not good any time. Since @onloop never made or provided a stencil with the package like it was once talked about (or a way to print one online would be super cool even) if you could have threaded coil inserts done in house for the enclosure mounting it would make the deck and build time exponentially better and easier. That way it lines up perfect every time and having it threaded is always a plus too. That how I do my enc mounting currently with my decks and it’s great.

I currently have the 97mm HUB’s on the R2 motors in back but on the front I am running a RKP SR 200mm truck with the black Abec 97mm refly’s and then the MFG outlaw deck I mentioned but am hoping to use that deck for my TB DD set up coming in a few months so keep me posted if I can be the guinea pig on this board (the 2nd one) at a discounted price or something.

IF not, I didn’t see any mention of price or timing for doing some decks like this that will fit with the R2 so lmk on that when you can too. Also, if you need any measurements or anything I can provide that will help just lmk.

Thanks in advance and keep up the hard work, love what you’re doing.

Absolutely. You have some of the answers I have questions for on making this set up fit on the bottom of other shapes besides flat like earth. Did you use a raptor battery? My main questions have to do with different boards, I want to be able to mount the raptor battery onto radial concave, flat bottom tub concave, (with or without cuts.). When I receive my raptor two system minus deck, I’ll put it on the bottom of something to test ride, but to test fit, I might use this blank. The biggest question is only to be answered when the board is ridden. I love that you responded here, because that’s how I like responding. I don’t want to give my answers to 1 person only at a time.

@Deodand I guess what I mean is; How wide and long does the flat section of the enertion battery pack interface surface need to be in order to get a good solid seal? Is there material we don’t have to remove, since this board specifically has a longer standing platform, even inside of the drops. The board here has more concave by maybe 40%. It has a moderate w concave in the middle of the platform. The rocker is negated by the lenticular shape of the W. If we cut down all the way until the middle of the w concave began being cut, we’d be about 7" wide on the flat section, and on the left and right of the W hump, the route would be through 4 plies. I think it will retain all the stiffness it needs, and maybe it can be further lightened with other cuts like deep wheel wells, flush mounts, and maybe some tail fluting which I invented last week haha.

10 points for the first person to tell me the hangar width measured by outwheel contact patch total width of the raptor 2. I’ll be making all the boards exactly that wide changemymind