RE/PT'ile >> Red Ember Drop Deck / Psychotiller 6x2in AT wheels, x2 190kv 6355 motors / x2 VESC / 10s3p 30Q battery pack

I don’t think wheel bite going to be an issue. I’ve got double barrel bushings, and the inside bushing is an indy 96a.

That’s a great name, I’ll put it on the list :grinning:. I’m thinking about doing a poll.


Not much progress today, got hung up at the BSA yard sale. As my kids summer camp is 1600 bucks I’m gonna take all the bonus bucks I can get. On the plus side they are mountain boarding, a badge and everything :grinning:.

I go the battery wires up, XT90-S loop key installed and the volt meter mounted I’ll probably have it in the road Monday night.


Just finished the maiden voyage, holy crap its awesome…

The Red Ember Boards deck by @treenutter is frikkin awesome. I’ve never felt so locked in on a board before. Just a little flex, but not so much it would hurt the electronics, just enough to smooth out the bumps. I don’t use this word much, but I can only describe it as “lush”.

The @psychotiller 6x2in AT’s are incredible. I "see’ the wobble that Dave was talking about, but I damn sure dont feel it. It’s all butter.

I’m running a 10s3p that @PXSS built for me. I don’t have all my LIPO’s in yet so I figured I’d run this temporarily. I may not switch out, this pack has some meat. I hit hills and accelerated quickly, never starved for amps.

I’ve still got some work to do. I couldn’t find my threaded inserts so the enclosure is just screwed on for now. Still waiting on the BMS. I need to align in my belts a little better. I need to dial in the VESC settings a bit, A little more punch on take-off, a little less brakes.


:grin: looking good!

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You can definitely run it without a BMS. You just have to be a little more vigilant and keep the settings conservative. Once you have a BMS you can relax the limits and really push the battery in terms of power and range since you’ll have the BMS to protect the cells


Ty sir :wink:

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I’ve got my battery cutoff pretty high. I did the motor detection on both VESCs, setup the can bus and PPM. Other than that and my bat min at -15 it’s pretty much default.

I can say without a doubt, 30Q’s are much meatier than 25R’s. I’m used to being starved for amps on 25R packs, but I am getting amp delivery like lipos with the 25R’s.

Good looking out brudda :grinning:.

@mmaner thanks! I’m so glad the deck is working for you! Damn that is a good looking build, looks like a sweet ride.

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Yeah, that’s good. Cutoffs without a BMS, I’d say 33V/30V with a bms you can bump it down to 30/28 or 28/26 if you really want to squeeze all the range out of it. On the top end, 41V fully charged with occasional 42V charge to balance with or without.

If you do go with these limits, I recommend using @Ackmaniac’s firmware on watt control mode.

As far as power goes, you can bump up your current draw from 45 up to 60, maybe even 90 if you want to really push it when you have the BMS that can handle it.

Remember that at low speeds, you want higher motor current if you want some serious acceleration. I run 75A since that’s plenty for me but you could go as high as 120A safely I think.

As I’ve been saying! 25Rs suck haaard in comparison. They’re just cheap…


It’s gonna be hard get back on a normal top mount :grinning:. I can say enough about the deck. It’s like a great pair of jeans, when I stepped on it for the first the today it just fit.

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Ive got my cutoffs at 32/౩౦ until my BMS(s) get here. I’ll prolly keep it there even then. I’ve only charged the pack once, but I watch the volt meter and stop it 41v. When I get my BMS installed I’ll prolly let it charge to 42. I’m gonna need all the bolts/amps I can get. Also, I just feel more comfortable with a BMS, less to worry about.

I run @Ackmaniac 's firmware by default now, watt control mode is unbeatable. I’ll play with the motor/battery settings when I get all the parts finalized. When I get my 3d printer back I’m going to make a plate to surface mount USB connection for both VESC’s so I don’t have to take the enclosure off to re-config.

I’m waiting on cables as well, gotta have them to make the Bluetooth lead for UART. I’ve still got 15 packages I’m waiting on to finish both of my builds :grinning:.

I’m going to buy some more 30Q’s for my kids build in a couple of months. Maybe make a 10s4p for me and give home the 3p.

Watched your live videos this morning. Really DOPE board!

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Thank you sir, I’m enjoying it :grinning:

I found my threaded inserts, got that done.

All I have left is the 3d prints, bluetooth module (cable) & BMS. @Crushkrew is printing the phase wire guide, and a couple of other things, for me (my printer is out for repair), thanks for that brudda.

I’m still trying to settle on a name for this beast. @treenutter thinks I should name it B.A. Baracus because it reminds him of The A Team. @Mobutusan is voting for Red Ryder BB Gun cause it’s red and it will blow away a Boosted Board (BB). Any other suggestions?

I’d like to put a volt meter on the top of the board. Does anyone know of any that will handle 42V and either surface mount or is square so recessing would be a bit simpler?


How about “Psycho Squirrel (or Psychonutter)”?


LOL, i love it…absolutely NOT going to do it, but I love it :slight_smile:


@mmaner @Mobutusan haha! I like the amalgamation of our names, even if it doesn’t exactly have the best “ring” to it!


Yeah, I think I dated her in college :slight_smile:


@PXSS @mmaner all of the common BMS’s we use (bestech, suupower, etc) are rated for 60A-80A continuous. The burst rates are higher of course, but have you found a reliable way to assess short-turm burst capacity without just frying the BMS? The spec sheets usually have a rating, but a) I don’t really trust them and b) the “short term” duration is never actually quantified.

This is assuming we actually use the BMS for discharge and it’s not bypassed. @mmaner I can move this question if you want, so as not to derail the build thread :slight_smile:

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Naw, its all good.

I cant say with a ton of experience, Ive only used 4 BMS’s but I’ve yet to burn one up. With LIPO’s I usually bypass and use it for charge only. With Li-Ion’s, I’ve got 2, I charge and discharge but I have really ‘pushed’ either board. When I get my new BMS’s in for the 30Q pack I’ll let you know how it goes.

I’d ask @Namasaki too, he is the king of all things BMS.

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