Revoc PRO 160A - 2-6S ESC Alternative

Have anyone heard about this ESC for esk8? I´m thinking in buying one for my esk8 build. I´ve heard some news it is top of the top on quality and it has lots of programmable points.

how much does it cost? I’ve also found one good car esc… but it was high end car esc… way more expensive than a vesc…So I dont see much reason choosing car esc over vesc if it higher priced and only offers 6s-8s…unless you really want to run high amps with just 6s…

It costs about 179€ plus the programming card (20€). It is a bit more expensive than vescs but not that more expensive… And seems a lot easier to program it. It has high end materials, not chinese ones, as far as I know. I´ve been reading about vesc issues and they look like they are very easy to fry and also difficult to program and fine tuning it. Plus I have to wait a ton of time to get them… So I don´t think I am going for a vesc. And 6S for me it is just fine.

Trying to know if anyone already have tried this one. :smiley:

I personally think there are some guidelines on how to use vesc safely… I have not used one yet… so these are all ideas I’ve collected and read on the forum.

You should stay in up to 10’s battery range, not choose high kv motor (some say 245kv is risky already), Dont switch between FOC and BLDC mode (without resetting the settings n such)… perhaps a couple more tips… mhh

Anyways, I think if you got the money just go with the vesc… talk with esk.de or what was their site and ask how much a DRV chip replacement might cost (if it does fail at all, as that is the most common problem…)

With vesc you will be able to go with higher voltage and adjust the settings way more… Perhaps, it will take a day or two more to set it up… but after that it might be a way more comfortable experience riding it…


Im saying this because with these untested esc’s the brakes might not work great or the acceleration is going to be too forceful.. usually the brakes are the problem I think, as the acceleration can be fine tuned with the few settings the esc’s usually offer.


Anyways, wish you luck finding your ideal esc :wink: perhaps someone will show up who has some info about it… but it seems these high end escs are used only by professionals or such and there are not always reviews and info about them on the internet… (might be worth to ask in some rc forums, though)

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I understand your points and I agree with you about vesc. I’ll might try the vesc one day… I’ve read that this little guy is very programmable, which is really positive. I am going to order one and I will let you know then.

Specs:

The Team Corally REVOC PRO electronic speed controller for sensored and sensorless motors are being fine tuned for the today’s high power brushless motors. Everything can be set-up on these controllers to provide you the best functionality and performance. The REVOC PRO manufactured with the highest grade components to ensure the lowest possible internal resistance resulting in a optimised performance. These controllers give the competition racer what he needs. You will experience the best controllability of your RC car, no matter you use it in a on-road or off-road car.

Features:

o For sensored and sensorless motors o Manufactured with the highest grade components o Ultra compact design o Aluminum case for improved heat dissipation o Waterproof power switch o Advanced boost - turbo timing system for improved acceleration performance o Enhanced throttle - brake control function. o 10 programmed profiles can be stored in the ESC o High power 5A BEC o Powerful TC Link software to test motor timing and advise the best ESC timing setting

Programming Features:

General Settings o Running Mode o Cut-off Voltage o Overheat protection o Motor Rotation o Reverse Speed

Throttle Control o Dead Band o Punch Rate SW- Point o Punch Rate 1 o Punch Rate 2 o Throttle Curve

Brake Control o Initial Brake o Drag Brake o Brake Strength o Brake Rate Control o Brake Curve

Turbo Timing o Turbo Timing o Turbo Delay o Turbo Slope

Power Specs

Application: 1/8 Off-Road - 1/8 On-Road Cont. Current (A): 160A Burst (A): 900A Nr of Li-xx Cells: 2-6S BEC: 6V 5A Motor Type: Sensored - Sensorless Motor Limits: 2S - 4S =< 3000 KV o 4-6 Poles 2S - 6S =< 2200 KV o 2-4 Poles Resistance: 0.00020 ohm Dimensions: 58x42x36mm Weight: 122g

Brake curve and throttle curve options seem to be quite good!

Ok, then it is perhaps up to you to get it and then report how good / smooth it is!

Probably one of the finest of car esc’s you can get then :slight_smile:

look into SKYRC TORO 150a esc. http://www.skyrc.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=178

Been using 4 of them for over a year. They can handle anything. I have 20-36 gearing so that pulls a lot of amps and makes the esc too hot to touch but they are not broken yet and going strong. They also have extensive throttle and brake curve settings.

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wow… very very nice!!! thank you so much for sharing it, a really nice possibility also. Definitely I am going to check it! :smiley:

aren’t these noisy when braking? I think that is also one of the things I would hate and have seen on some car esc’s… just not sure which ones where the noisy / itchy ones… I know they are quite good but I think I once dismissed them when I found out they were noisy or jerky (with acceleration)

Yes very noisy brakes. Acceleration is pretty good. But I like the noise as it lets ppl know I’m coming.

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Just received the Esc from Team Corally and It looks amazing well build, feels really solid. Lets see how it behaves on my esk8. Soon I will give some updates about it.

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The power button looks good. Similar to roxxy esc button. Otherwise looks good as it seems this esc has a real - visible heatsink! Im not sure if other car escs have it so big and visible as for my fvt 6s it is hard to see whenever there is a sink or not

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Update:

Well, the new esc is installed. The performance is unparalleled compared with the previous Esc I had, which I don’t even know the brands name. It is not fine tuned yet. And there are some esc configurations which I don’t really get it like "punch rate switch point, 1st stage and 2nd stage, or throttle dead band and also the turbo timing settings… But I will get there.

I can say right now that I am getting a huge amount of power from my esk8, acceleration is amazing and the breaking it is smooth and efficient as a charm. I am reaching right now 36-38km/h easily and before I was getting 26km/h just by changing the esc. I have a 6s battery. Today i have made 35km on my esk8.

Tomorrow I will try to make some fine tuning to make the ride even smoother. :blush: Because I am getting a huge punch from the throttle sometimes, I have to be a bit carefull accelerating. And when I am starting if I accelerate a bit too much the motor freak out a bit, kind of stops, maybe it is the timing…

@marcoluz I think turbo refers to the function that when you reach certain RPM, the ‘‘boost’’ kick in and gives you vast acceleration… though I think this kind of thing is quite dangerous and not really necessary for esk8 :slight_smile:

Throttle dead band means how much you have to press the trigger before it starts responding… 5% is gonna be more trigger play, before it starts reacting, compared to 3%, where just barely touching might activate the throttle…

not sure about punch rate… Im not sure why some more experienced esk8 users have not jumped on this thread but I think they could have help you out more… as I’ve got experience with only one car esc and I did not customize it much…’

If you have not figured out yourself by now already… I think you should look up a manual for your esc and it should cover all the important points needed for setting it up…

Drag brake leave to 0%… it just means, that if you enable it, once you release the throttle your board wont cruise… but it will start to stop - brake.

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Okami, thank you for clearing it for me. :slight_smile:

I have read the manual already… Not very clear. I understood some points already and made a few adjustments but this thing about turbo it´s a tricky one, I don´t get the turbo timing and the turbo engage slop. Also if I could find a way of kicking it a little bit softer, it would be great, because with the smart box, I don’t have a way to turn it off.

I am trying to find the software on team corally.com, but I can’t find a link for it. Already wrote a message to them…

Going to wait for their answer.

@marcoluz Can you show what kind of programmer are u using for programming it?

What do you exactly mean by ‘‘smart box’’ ? I hope you are not just pressing the SET button…I know other esc’s have it, though I think this kind of method is quite hard to correctly adjust the settings, since you can mess up the sequence and have to follow which lights blink when.

My esc and believe others too… have ‘‘acceleration’’ setting, and after that you just set it to: very soft, soft, medium, hard, very hard…

What kind of settings do you have under this category:

Throttle Curve

?

Is it just linear and exponential or something more?


I’d advise to mess with these settings:

*Punch mode

Whats the effect of punch mode setting? AMA4Life 7.30.11, 12:27 am Its how effective the throttle is at the low end. Low value (minimum) means the car may not want to move until you pull the trigger halfway. High value (max) may mean that you can’t touch the throttle without popping a wheelie or breaking some drive train part.

Start in the middle and adjust from there.

It works in combination with the slipper clutch to give the throttle response you want without ripping the gears out of the transmission.

http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/archive/index.php?t-129160.html


Nevermind, this looks like it explains everything even better:

2A – Punch Rate Switch Point: This setting defines the point in the forward throttle position at which the punch rate changes. Options: 1-99%, in steps of 1%.

2B – 1st Stage Punch Rate: This is the level of punch used in the first stage of the punch range, before the switch point. Setting 1 is least punch, with 30 being the most. Options: 1 – 30, with steps of 1.

2C – 2nd Stage Punch Rate: This is the level of punch used in the second stage of the punch range, after the switch point. Setting 1 is least punch, with 30 being the most. Options: 1 – 30, with steps of 1.

My Summary: The punch is basically what others call a current limiter. It limits the amount of initial power that is allowed to go to the motor. Most ESC have this as just a single general setting. Hobbywing gives us much more control over this setting that the competition. [ … ]

Yes I can. I´m uploading a small video of the smart box working. In these following video I am not pressing the Enter button but when I do it sends the info to the esc showing an info saying “sending to the esc” and then “sending ok”.

Here in these esc says the same “very soft, soft, etc, etc…” no values to enter.

The settings of the tc smart box are in these picture: (although some parameters aren´t available on the tc smart box, don´t know why

)