heat works well for softening the winding epoxy and then unwind if you can or cut.
don’t pull so hard that you pull up the stator laminations at the top and bottom of the stator.
if you do end up with a bare edge that the rewind will have to go over its difficult to get a good coating of a resin that will stay on and might be easier to use tyvex paper or something. usps has the envelopes for free and glue it over the bare spot. you have to get all spots the wire goes over covered or its easy to short and you will be pisssssed.
if the lrk winding will fit that is an awesome easy winding. and if terminated wye a hair better
its a nightmare trying to figure how many turns and wires are in parallel and easier to get it all off without thinking about it in my experience, carefully, and just rewind first with a super thin wire that will be easy to put on and you can test the kv, figuring how many turns you really want, and then rewind with the thickest wire that will do it for you. maybe you know this already. and youre going to want to put another layer of resin back on after winding and fix down all wires
its hard to tell if your motor rewind is wound without shorting either to other phases or within the phase or to the stator (which isn’t a complete short but a half short and not too bad). a resistance test with a multimeter will tell only so much and a good inductance meter is the easiest way to see it all and you can get them for like 20 bucks. L/C meter
im pretty obsessed with winding motors. if you want to talk about it you can message me…or I could clutter the site up for days