I was wondering how would it be possible to make a slide on enclosure for my batteries. For my setup i must remove the batteries from the enclosure to charge them so i was wondering if there was a way to slide the enclosure on and off the bottom of the board but still be secure to not fall off and be vibration resistant.
I was thinking of different joint/hinge types but had no luck. Any suggestions?
haven’t researched it enough and want to keep my first build simple and then progressively make it better as i find weaknesses and areas that need improving. I don’t mind unplugging th batteries i would just like to figure out a way to slide then enclosure on and off but still be safe and in place so it doesn’t fall off
Im charging my board pretty much daily, since I commute 20km for about 200 days a year … plus extra tours on the weekend, usually 2-4 charges per weekend. i can confidently say that I wouldnt use my board that often if I had to open an enclosure and take out my battery for charging every time. it sounds incredibly annoying and impractical. especially since my enclosures are usually packed very tightly with optimized supershort wires to avoid any “long battery cable” effects. brrr, just add a charge port
yeah this is what i don’t want to happen, which is why i was wondering if anyone knew the best way to go about this maybe with a joint of some kind or hinge?
yeah i totally understand that. I plan on having my battery in separate enclosures anyway as i have a loaded vanguard so i would just like to slide it off and plug them into the parallel charging board i got
im also not sure how often ill be riding the board so i don’t mind taking it out of the enclosure, but if it gets to a point where it gets annoying, that will be my next board upgrade
@Raf - You simply just use a bolt where the bolt head is exposed on the bigger portion of the hole cut outs on the flange of the enclosure. It does depend on the deck used as some decks might need the enclosure to be secured harder than other decks usually do to the concave. If this is the case, you will need to tighten the enclosure and you won’t be able to undo it unless you back out the bolts a bit. So for this reason, it does depend on the deck.
@whitepony - There are no charging ports for this enclosure it’s more meant to keep ESC & LiPo packs separate that way you can easily pop open the battery enclosure for the lipo packs. If your referring to the on/off switch port, different on/off switches have different cut out holes. I didn’t include them that way you don’t have unnecessary or unwanted holes. People would be forced to purchase my on/off switch if that was the case and/or have an empty hole. Most people should have a drill and/or a few drill bits and/or a file to widen the on/off switch hole.
Lipo vs 18650 flat packs@whitepony - Your using a different battery pack this pack is for lipos, not 18650 packs. Before when flat packs weren’t available. I’d have 3-4x sets of 2x3s or 2x6s packs and just swap packs. Charging those packs take 30mins to an hour. I’d have 20+ mile range swapping packs. They do get annoying when you do it too often + you do have to carry the additional packs in a backpack. I used 7-8" tablet covers on ebay for a few bucks to hold 2x packs. These enclosures make swapping the packs a bit easier.
However, the prices of 18650 flat packs are getting much cheaper. I’m selling a 6s4p pack for $260 which equals to about 10+ miles if not more and miamiboards is selling a 12s2p for around $280. So if you add up the costs for a lipo setup vs 18650 flat packs the prices are fairly a bit cheaper and more convenient since you have the plug in charging capability.
@Raf - If your costs for lipo add up to $260 or more… I’d probably strongly consider an 18650 flat pack.
If he use li/ion battery than charging ports is logical to have, but if lipos: they are not safe, if something goes wrong, all esk8 will turn to ashes.
Im thinking of maybe using some metal car door clips. That way i could just rip off the enclosure and they’re are pretty strong. This will also mean there would be no screws which would leave a clean stealth look (my project aim)