Hi, First of all: I am quite happy with it. It has not the power and endurance of your custom built ones, but it fits perfectly as a commuter for me to get to work. (I am aware of the irony being happy with it while it’s broken )
Unfortunately it went down after 2 or 3 months. I figured out that when I step on it it faints, while (after battery disconnect and reconnnect) it works fine with no human load on it. Like the guy in this video describes it (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WU5JEG7e7c4&feature=youtu.be ).
The comments in the video suggested to look after any cables that might get squeezed. I did the same but cables were OK. Instead I found out that stepping on the battery makes the ESC go off. I even determined and marked the points of pressure, which causes this.
The voltage drops once I pinch one of those points.
First I thought it’s the battery. which is broken. I talked to one of the guys from support (Switzerland), who ensured me to send me a new battery (they have delivery problems atm) so support is actually quite decent, despite what I noticed from other threads (maybe its different in the US).
But meanwhile I found out, that when the battery is detached I can press really hard on it w/o any voltage drop.
So my question is (questions are):
Is there some current flowing when I press on the battery? Is that normal? And if so, is the ESC the problem being to sensitive to that?
Many thanks in advance for your support. This is a great forum.
Seems like the company is coming to the party so don’t do anything yet that may void the warranty. To really gauge what might be the issue you would have to open it right up and check everything but as I said this might void the warranty. Before you do any troubleshooting get some assurances in writing that you can without losing your rights. Good luck
Yeah, I came to the same conclusion. “To open or not to open, that is the question …” I like reparing stuff (or at least the idea of ) and don’t mind to have an old repaired thingy rather than a new one, but I can’t be sure that everything works out fine.
I should open it and check if there’s nothing loose.
It’s pretty easy to open.
I should replace the cells with 30Q or VCT6 (costs only 40-50€ for only 10cells) because this pack has a lot of sag because of the cells they use.
Hills won’t kill your battery anymore
only way forward is to upgrade the ESC to a VESC anyway - you want full control and telemetry via bluetooth.
It’s what I did. Next thing will be going belt drive because the single hub is shit for braking.
Battery upgrade is further down the road once the sag annoys you.
I think the VESC cannot be started via push on wheels, which I like about my Lou. Also “full control” and telemetry is not desired. It just needs to run and stop when I want. I choose Lou because of the Hub. I can use it still as an almost normal Skateboard w/o engine running. From what I learned so far, with a belt drive you cannot do this. What’s wrong with braking? I was quite satisfied with it.
I guess the tastes vary, and that is good. So many thanks for your input.
Ever went downhill and tried to come to a standstill? Not possible with the Hub.
Also the ESC truly is bad - using a VESC will be worth the money and will feel so much better. Push to start can be easily added via modern switches like from @Martinsp.
I have built 3 batteries now for my lou. The 30q upgrade is significant. Be careful working with the stock bms. The balance wires are glued on not fixed with a connector. I just ordered new tiny bmss from bestech to make more batteries. It would be a tight squeeze for a dual drive to fit a double esc like unity and the remote receiver and a push to start switch. I have been stuck with small ESCs.
Mine were glued. No solder. When I was working with it I accidentally pulled a few a little too hard and pulled them right off the bms. Your working with extremely tiny places to get the wires back onto the bms so it would take some extremely precise soldering for me to fix it.
I bought it from MEEPO.
maybe same product selling in diyeboard.
I don’t wanna drill a power switch hole in the Louboard deck, so I needed a push start function.
Wheel diameter became small, but braking force and climbing ability both higher than single hub.
BMS is a small 15A output bought on Aliexpress or eBay. Using bypass discharge.
This idea was somewhere in this forum. lol
)
We look forward to the picture and welcome.
) and don’t mind to have an old repaired thingy rather than a new one, but I can’t be sure that everything works out fine.
Hills won’t kill your battery anymore 
. I will conisder this.
I’m using small BMS only for balance charging.