Indeed!
Update:
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Found a way to get rid of those holes with using the slot and force solder mask over it! And made the ports at the bottom symmetrically.
Top:
Bottom:
Inside:
Question: Is it smart to have the ground plane to the edges? Or should I have a little space between the edge with the ground plane?
This is looking really awesome! but i have no experience with pcb design for now. maybe @chaka can help out?
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With the SparkSwitch Circuit, Bluetooth, MOSFET it will cost 28.3 dollar for one to make. Without bluetooth and the vedder’s spark switch it will cost 17.59 dollar to make one.
Are you going to produce complete boards, kits or just open source it? I have some hookups with companies that can make either just PCB’s or complete boards in sweden. Let me know if you want me to ask them for estimates.
It is good to end the ground plane before the edge of the board. There are several reason as to why but it is a good habit to have when finalizing your gerber files to have a small border free of copper.
I am not really gonna produce like for people to buy but if they as I can make for them.
But I am defintley gonna make the PCB for me! And yes ask the companies I wonder how expensive they are 
Because I live in the neigbour country(norway)
I thought so! Thanks 
Its much much compact and smaller! The boad under the AntiSpark(Vedder’s Switch) is 28.14x16.33mm And if you would only order that piece it would only cost 3.55 dollar for 3! But with the vedder’s switch it cost 14.5 dollar for 3.
And now the circuit can have 1.8->16 volt in the power. It will be converted to 3.3V for the 2,4ghz transciever, and I removed bluetooth.
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That looks awesome. 
I’ve been working with my perfboard version on this, need to clean up and post the code. already have turnsignals, brakelights and random sequenses from a separate module. Just need to make sure there are enough failsafes and add some throttle ramping.
is there an antenna for the nrf? the integrated one on these cheap module work great at short range < 10m.
Its the one on right. The turn lights sounds awesome I was considering on making that. Because on my controller I will add many more functions, like it will be easy access to hit a button that makes it blink to left or right and I will have brake lights etc.
I will start developing it when I have made my Resin Printer.
NRF24L01: It has an inbuilt antenna but the range depends on library etc. And I have had over 20m no problem. And I will look for the best library for maximum range and I will add protocolls etc so you will not get any interference problems.
I’ve been using the version on the left since its more breadboard friendly. Its gone much further on my rc car but it really only matters for short distance on esk8…
Did you get a form2? I already have a bunch of 3d models for remotes, resin could do even more details i’m sure.
if you’re going no bt, i would break out rx, and tx pins so you can relay vesc data to a remote screen.
its just 2 pins and a bit more code so why not right?
The TX and RX are already breaked out 
But the TX and RX is inverted also TX are arduino RX and RX is arduino TX because of the FTDI Usb has it like that.
No its too expensive for me 
I am making my own, with my own hardware.
I think I will make it bot to top resin printer.
It’s really easy to make all you need is a UV Projector, and a Z-Axis stepper motor.
Some coding with the gcode files about when it shall move up. And I will make it like it fills the resin after it has used some so the resin usage will be minimal and it will swipe over after it has cured because of better results etc.
The cost of steppers etc and all electronics will be around 30 dollars. For the projector around 299 dollar for a really good and high quality projector. And resin cost around 30?
So The Resin printer will cost around 400 dollars then 2000 dollar.
I have seen many homemade resin printers, the quality is the almost as same as the Formlabs, But it depends on how far your projector is, focused etc…
This is an example, you see how simple it is?
And Im gonna make a pick and place machine with automatic reflowing, and automatic solder on the pads.
This is the thing I will build on.
Mmm that’s pretty interesting. I have a reprap i3. Works fine but projectors have gotten cheaper since then.
I’ve been wanting to do a pick and place for a while but I wasn’t sure where to start.
I was thinking a infra toaster mod for reflow and pick and place separately.
Yes, the toaster is better and if you “hack” it so it goes by the rules of the solder pasta with right temperatur.
But this is just an idea for the future in 1-2 years, when I get better with coding and making softwares. I started with electronics/coding for 8 months ago as my hobby(still my hobby, I’m still in middleschool lol) and I have come pretty far on so little time. So I wonder how much I can do when I have created CNC Machine, Resin Printer etc.
Before it costed 14.5 dollar for 3 pcb. Now it cost 9.25 dollar for 3!
If its smaller its cheaper! So each board cost around 3 dollars.
And you can see I have breaked out the TX and RX on the bottom.
- BORDER - BORDER - BORDER - BORDER - BORDER - BORDER - BORDER -
really cool. you can see the progression you’ve made from the first post to this.
a single fet makes it really compact, but it might get too hot. not sure how to solder a directFet but seem like they are they way to go now since you can easily add a heatsink and keep the pcb compact. short traces.
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The mosfet is on both side, but yeah, it might be hot. But you never know until you try xD