Update: I’m using Venom 81a double-barrel bushing boardside and roadside now, using the two-thread tightness standard scientifically substantiated by @longhairedboy and @lowGuido.
I have the top speed limited to 16 MPH through VESC’s “soft RPM limit” feature and I’ve clocked that speed regularly with a speedometer on a smartphone. Most of my riding is on sidewalks and dense complicated areas, so average speed is 8-10 MPH, and then I can open up a bit on when there are some long and unobstructed stretches of road.
I switched to softer bushings when the temperatures dropped here about a month ago… in the cold the bushings get stiff. Not sure how these will perform in the summer.
I’ve never used this kit, but its definitely worth looking at and trying out. It seems like it would stiffen things up a bit, maybe even drop the snap-back time a hair or two.
I have played around with pivot cups and bushes. I have even put an O ring in between the 2 bushes to help support the hanger. In the end its all personal preference.
Hi, when my LecDec longboard arrived it had the rear truck very tight, almost no turn when using my arms to move it. On the other side, the front truck was very loose, no kingpin thread visible.
I used this configuration for some time and tried different settings. Currently the back truck is a little more loose than originaly and the front truck a little more tight than originaly.
I like to carve around and sometimes try the speed of my longboard and I think I found a good compromise between the two for the time being.
What are your truck settings to avoid speed wooble? Symmetrical tightness settings between front and rear or different like used for downhill?
@sismeiro I think you’ll get the most benefit from trying different bushings; try different shapes and different durometers until you dial in exactly how you want it to feel. As others mention on this thread; altering the bushings (and in more advanced scenarios the truck angle) are the way to fine-tune. Just tightening (or loosening) the stock bushings won’t get you very far.
In general; higher durometers = more stability at the cost of responsive turning.
Speed wobbles are due to a lack of balance by the rider.
For regular style riding, the best thing you can do to avoid speed wobbles is to ride with your knees
bent. I haven’t had speed wobbles in 20 years, and my trucks are so loose they are about to fall off, and I go down big fat nasty hills.
Ive been reading through all the ‘speed wobble’ topics with interest as I came off at 25mph last month and my grade 3 AC Joint separation is only now beginning to mend.
I have standard Caliber 2 trucks and Ive just bought these bushings. Do you think they’ll make a difference? I bought 94a. I think the Calibers come with 89a standard. Also, really interested in what @psychotiller was saying about the angle of the base plate! I skated street for years but never fast. Im sure experience at speeds will develop but I really dont wana come off again like I did last month. Been a real pain in the ass (shoulder) over Xmas.
All things said in this thread are true. Removing rear Steer, Bushing setup and a wheel base that compliments you feet placement will help the most with when introducing it to speed.
@cliofreak are you running the same angle baseplate front and rear? Esk8 are directional so it’s best to dewedge the rear some for a lower angle. This way the front and rear trucks can’t oscillate off of one another.
Basically what @MoeStooge said… Remove steering from the rear
I’m using a slight angled baseplate on both front and rear although I’ve just looked at it and the front is on backwards! So the front has an increased angle 50+ and the rear is less 50-. Should I make both same or remove front!?
I´m still running standard black Calibers with standard red bushings (barrel and cone), front and back both equally tightened down to about 3 threads of visible kingpin.
Running a Truncated Tesseract, i have a nice turning radius but i start feeling small wobbles at about 40 km/h. The faster you go, the harder you have to suppress the wobbles, but i agree, it´s just a bit training and experience that you know when your board starts wobbeling.
I think i´m going to try barrel/barrel soon…
I feel like taming squirrely handling and wobbles is mainly rider skill and eliminating slop in bushings and pivot cups.
Regular longboarders have zero problems going 60mph on loose 50 degree trucks. Like really crappy trucks.
Messing with baseplate angles is totally unnesecary but if you like the way it steers go for it.
Those “almost precision” packs on muirskate are awesome. Quality urethane pivot cups (not the crap rubber that comes stock) and precision sleeved washers make a world of difference.
And steering dampers? Really? Lets not get crazy here, its not like we all go more than 40mph often.
As @zpoole27 said it’s mostly rider skill. But wedgibg can help
As well down hill boards are typically split setups(different angles) and are directional like our esk8 ie a split setup like 50/44 will be nice and turn with a stable rear.
Freeride setups are typically same angle front and back as you end up riding switch alot. 35/35, 42/42, 44/44, 50/50 are Freeride setups.
While Gravity and Esk8 both share some of the same fundamentals and setup characteristics, the drive system weight and rotational torque(accel and deceleration) are applied forces that change handling characteristics between the two. A light weight axel ( less unsprung weight) is easier to recover from speed wobble than weighted axel under rotational torque. On a rear drive setup my experience has been the more rear steer and axel play is reduced the more stability is created. Yes rider skill is a big factor.
Cool. I’ve 94a cylinder bushings ordered and I’ve just changed to 50/44 setup. Is there anything at all to be said for 44/44. I only ask again because I’ve the riser sitting there in front of me to do it and I’ve already come off at 25mph and defs don’t wana do it again. Thanks for the replies.
Edit:
Just watch a few vids explaining the benefit of the front being higher degree. Makes sense.
