You want less rear steering / un equal steering to prevent oscillations building, which is what speed wobbles are.
Im weird I run 55/55 with wedges. But I have harder rear bushings and tighter rear truck so that reduces rear steer a bit. Also I run barrel / barrel which helps too. It more wants to go strait than turn.
Also after looking at your pics, the front truck looks a lot tighter than the rear truck. Should be reverse of that.
Good shout!! I noticed that earlier too!
Wow, OP, exactly same thing happened to me just a couple weeks ago. Wounds are almost healed, but still sensitive. I immediately took out cheap bushings and replaced with quality ones that are shortest, took out the shock pad, and dewedged. Itās much better now stability wise. Now the turning lies mainly on the front trucks. This is where a double king pin truck is perfect cuz in slow speed it can turn sharp angles but still stable at speed with a super stiff bushings. My current WB is about 22".
Thatās true of gravity skateboards as well, tight in the back, loose in the front.
Sorry to resurrect an old thread butā¦ Looking at getting a set of Ollin motor mounts with Ronin trucks. The question is- I was wondering whether to get both trucks as standard (42.5 degree base plate) or getting a set with the rear base plate reduced to a 25 degree angle which should add some stability at speed?
Iām gonna be topping out at about 35/40 so not crazy fast. Any thoughts appreciated. Thx
Where are the ronin trucks? I canāt find any.
Youāve gotta order them with the diagonal motor mount set up
To reduce speed wobble at speed and still be able to make decent turns i wedged the front and dewedged the rear both by about 6 degrees. In the rear I put a riptide 90a aps chubby boardside and a 85a standard paris barrel roadside. My front truck is a caliber II 50 degree and i kept the stock bushings in that one.
Also, i run a topmount. For even more stability you could go for a dropthrough.
Whereād you get that enclosure?
Itās a @bigben
I was having a dandy chat with my homies riding the other day. Iām just going to share a couple of my thoughts here. Because Iāve had the opportunity to street face more times on electric boards, then I have in the past couple years of DH skating.
When Downhilling - or at zero throttle coasting down hill on esk8
This sounds normal and all right? But we have rear wheel drive. I tested a symmetrical setup the other day, with the phases flipped so that it was FWD. FWD was alot like the above DH and no load coasting explainationsā¦
So what makes rear wheel drive different? Itās hard to explain, but the simplest words I can think of are torque vectoring. Basically a mix of truck slop and power from the wheels.
What Iāve found is, basically with maximum torque (full throttle), accelerating straight, eventually causes these micro shimmys that form a frequency and build into a nice oscillating wobble. As the wobble starts in the back.
What feels different then analog, is in order to accelerate without the shimmy, I basically have to hold a rail(with my weight) and be in a perpetual slight carve/turn. Keeping pressure on a rail, and then switching rail pressure at a carve arc your body is comfortable with keeps the board from starting itās own oscillation under extreme acceleration as if you were going straight.
The odd and interesting part is with FWD you donāt get this, because you have more leverage over the front, and the back isnāt trying to act on itās own, because it is torque deficientā¦
Just some food for thoughtā¦
cast katanas are now live from ronin
160mm hangers 2.5mm rakeā¦ āconservativeā I think with 42.5 or 32.5 base platesā¦
all with you bro, the board/deck/trucks are a spring, rwd loads it. it has to unload at some point. fwd more closely mimics falling down a hill by gravity.
Yea itās super weirdā¦ But holding a slight carve/turn/lean under acceleration, those shimmys are non existent. It really does feel like a spring if you try to accelerate straight under WOT.
Iām really temped to build a FWD Falcon, itās really peaked my interest, now that my body is starting to get alot better āfeelā of whatās happening with the torque being applied on esk8 vs DHā¦ Itās one of those things where you have done something so many times your body starts to āfeelā the mechanicsā¦ kinda like Randy Mullen explaining doing a trick heās done 4000 times. Your body feels the individual movements behind the trick, vs just one assembled movement(the trick).
Iād like to add a note here as well. I think that slop in your trucks plays a large part in the start of speed wobbles. Any slop thatās present in your setup can be the initiating factor that triggers the micro-turn you never intended that can inevitably send you into a wobble. Spherical bearings, or inserts that close the gap between your kingpin and hangar like a spherical bearing would are great for this. Replacing loose pivot cups. A queenpin like on roninās. Well meshed, good fitting bushings that are snug in your hangars bushing cutouts. These are all good ways to reduce slop.
People mention dampeners: for an experienced rider, your legs should play this role of a dampener. I always say, wet noodleā¦ Al-denteā¦ And you got the right idea. Since wobbles compound from weight on the rear, I always lean forward if I feel any instabilityā¦ Not turn (just havenāt tried itā¦). Leaning forward acts like de-wedging the rear truck in a way. By taking weight off the rear truck and onto the front truck, you end up turning more from the front and less from the back obviously (almost like having a dewedged rear truck). This is why when I am going fast I always tend to weight the front truck significantly more than the rear, and I never get wobbles. This might be partly due to my bushing setup as well. A fun personal note on weighting, everytime I see a newer rider get the wobbles, their first reaction is usually to tense up (tense bad, wet noodle and relax good), lock their knees standing up straight (again bad, you need to absorb and dampen the wobbles with your noodle legs by bending your knees and relaxing, and keep low- getting taller just gives more momentum to your wobbliness), and they lean backwards onto the rear truck out of fear of going faster or something (also very bad, wobbles tend to almost always originate from a bad rear setup or more weight on the rear truck). Inevitably, they always go down when they do these things: stand up tall, tense up, and lean back- this is the opposite of what you want to do.
Practice what @Deckoz suggested, keep a mild turn going, that way it makes sense you have less chance of getting into that oscillation from one side to another. Relax. Keep your legs loose and ride it out. Donāt fear going faster unless you are barrelling into a car and stay leaning forward for the most part, and donāt stand up straight. Your body should stay still over where your board should be and when your board gets out of control, let your legs make up the difference between where the board is and where it should be while your body hovers still, all by keeping your legs in that noodle state. Focus forward, not on the board. As long as you donāt push your limits too hard, get used to going a little faster with good protection on (knee pads, slide gloves, retracting remote, helmet) so you can confidently bail on your hands and knees when practicing feeling out the wobbles and becoming comfortable with them. You need to know how to feel them out in a pinch, because they always happen in a pinch so get used to them in a controlled environment when you are conscious of it.
For bushings, I run a set of low rebound, fat barrels, with a lower rebound ultra fat barrel boardside. This acts also as a dampener from wobbles originating at the rear truck. I run the front relatively loose with high rebound to accentuate the offset in turning and feel, which for me improves manuverability and stability while maintaining that reboundy turning feeling. Setting up your rear truck with a slight 1-2 degree dewedge even can help substantially enough to mean no more wobbles. Even running shorter barrels boardside can act as a mild de-wedge in a pinch, but can throw your trucks natural geometry off introducing slop if you havenāt implemented other means (spherical bearings/inserts) to deal with that slop- Wedge risers are best. Side note, donāt tighten your bushings down so much that they are puffing outā¦ Get harder bushings at that point. They should be tightened down enough to not deform, but stay solidly in place.
I ride front wheel drive and never had a wobble. It also just feels a lot nicer to me. Maybe itās not true but could make sense that front wheel drive would have less wobbles. With the more turnable truck being heavier I think it holds it more stable
Yea. But the motors I feel slowly amplify this when in the rear, especially under heavy acceleration.
Maybe, but normally the front is reactive to the road and you get micro jiggles, while the rear stays stable. I think itās the mix of the micro jiggles you normally absorb with the front, mixed with the torque vectoring of the rear(wheels trying to stay at the same throttle rpm) that the two jiggling together form a wobble. Where the front wheel drive, the front jiggles with the road like a normal analog boardā¦ but the rear stays dead.
Just what I think Iām feeling
Yea. But the motors I feel slowly amplify this when in the rear, especially under heavy acceleration.
Agreed. Iāve never had this be the cause for me, but conceptually I 100% agree and see how this could happen.