The Frankenboard šŸ¤– | Loaded Vanguard | Dual 6355 | Dual FOCBOX | 8s 10000mAh | Orangatang Kegels

Oh well 10A sure is a lot. I also wouldnā€™t want to push that through a VGA port :smiley: Nice build!

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flawless-victory

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how did you do the whole vga thing?

This is how I did it: http://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/10s-balance-connector-series-harness/33051/4?u=fraannk

how did you use a vga cable though?

did you just solder the pins?

80 hour print?

you are a madman. props for the crazy ones.

mind sharing the printer settings? mainly interested in speed. I kind of missed, did you mention from what fillament you made the enclosures? and how thick are the walls?

I want to print my encosures as well :slight_smile: just need to get the printer working reliably firstā€¦ it fucks up a lot on long printsā€¦ the life of diy i suppose

@sid1 I just made my own cable with a VGA connector in one end, and a 10S JST-XH in the other end. Used some 20-24 (maybe more, havenā€™t counted :laughing:) pin cable I had laying around. Inside the enclosure I also just used a VGA connector and made a 2x 4s (or 5s) to VGA solution. See pictures:

@xilw3r Iā€™m not entirely sure I remember the correct settings, but I think itā€™s 50mm/s, 0,1mm layer height, 230 degrees Celsius, printed with PLA. The walls of the enclosures are 3mm thick. Could use another mm, because some of the screw holes started to crack because of the board flex.

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oh ok. I will try that

Nice build!

I am thinking about using a similar VGA charging port for 10S battery in my next build.

Do you use any fuse for charging? I am worried that somebody could stick a metal object into the charging port and short the battery. So a fuse for charging sounds like a good idea.

what charger is it, @fraannk?

BTW, I have a similar Vanguard build. I was charging it with iCharger 3010B (until I added a BMS). But I donā€™t not have a VGA port, so I needed to open the enclosure every time when I charged.

@sash I do not use a fuse for charging. I have 3D printed some caps for the connectors which seal them pretty good. You would also need a specific metal object to get anything inside a VGA connector, and even the XT90. I use the part of the XT90 with no exposed conductors in the enclosure which also makes it harder to short.

@sid1 https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-reaktor-30a-1000w-balance-charger.html

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@fraannk
Thanks! Can you share files for 3D printing VGA and XT90 connector caps?

@sash You can find them on my Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/fraannk/designs Note: the caps are a very tight fit, so if you donā€™t like that, a 102-103% scale or something would probably be better.

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@fraannk Thanks! This is what I was looking for.

I also noticed that you have a file for 3D printing motor pulleys? Do plastic motor pulleys work for you? (I am asking just out of curiosity. I am using metal motor pulleys and 3D printed wheel pulleys.)

@sash I donā€™t use them. Theyā€™re just for prototyping purposes.

Real clean build! Love it man. Also, checked you your video. Looks great in action!

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thanks for the info

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talking about the ā€œmain charge portā€ that you drawewd. do you have to put ā€œa loop keyā€ in order to power on/off the board? or the BT drawed in the second picture is the power of/on button?