I see , so it would be for when the motor mounts can’t get any far in you have to shave it down , but since these mounts slip right in , I’m good ?
Yeah exactly, you are good
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And to add to @moon you should definitely Loctite all screws that don’t have nylon
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Interesting , are nylon screws stronger or have a property that make them prone to stay on?
Are you sure? I got all phase/sensor wires to fit in the prototype riser, and the production version has even more space to fit them in. The wire loom on the sensor wires may make it look like they won’t fit, but the sensor wires themselves are only about as thick as a Wampa hair (I assume). If you get all sensor wires aligned vertically when installed, they should take up almost no extra room.
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Maybe I’m not trying hard enough , one sensor wire can fit , but after that , there’s no space for them. Have no idea why when it looks like we have the same awg wires (maybe our sensor wires are different awg?)
I’ll try out the way the tunnel risers were intended to be used per indirections on Monday on the preassmebly but I don’t have much hopes for it.
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Are they a super snug fit?
Do you have another photo of this from a different angle? Do you mean stack the sensor wires over the phase wires?
I’m happy you got it to work as I want everything routed through the risers to keep things neat but am concerned that they need to have some play to move back and forth incase the wires are pulled while carving or can that be easily fixed with leaving some allowance of wires before routing them?
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Sorry I was meaning nylon locknuts. These will stay on by themselves without loctite, adding loctite I’ve heard can deteriorate the nylon which is what stops the nut vibrating off
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Maybe due to the inner mount motors, the tunnel riser works bests when the cables are routed that ways.
From reverse mounted motors, wire could feed in as directed.
Like how Mike does it here ?
My sensor wires doesn’t really fit in next to the phase wires, but then again, I’m using thicker wires on the adapters I made. didn’t matter much to me since I’m running sensorless.
The sensor wire are tiny though so laying them flat on the top would be fine too, it’s just the sleeve that makes them look big
Working on an enclosure there’s a place for 12s3p single stack with charge only or 10s3p with bestech chrg&discharge bms with dual focbox setup options 
messed up the print abit but no matter gonna fix that up and use it as plug for fiberglass infusion mould. Tho I’m not sure where to put that electric sign 
greatly inspired from your build 
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@Zyb It looks awesome bro! I have no idea how you’re fitting 30+ cells along with a charge/discharge BMS in there but I’m intrigued to see.
Update
Did the Pre-fitting/Preassembly today. What it is, is that I loosely assemble everything to see how all the parts play together. It’s helpful in identifying design flaws that aren’t visible on paper, such as a motor mount that’s at the wrong angle or wheel bite issues that you thought weren’t an issue. For me, I love to pre-fit since it allows me to refine my wire plan.
“Uhhh @jc06505n is that tape”
Yes… yes it is. Didn’t want to waste any Velcro so I tape it 
. It still did its job and allowed me to semi-simulate a mounted enclosure.
The first thing is the clearance. I have a hella lot of it. It seems I’m going to have to have to seek some of @Alphamail’s bushing advice to regain some stability. Really don’t want to have to resort to bindings.
As you can see I’ve put a tunnel riser up front in order to level the board out. The tunnel risers act as a way to ensure that there’s no wheel bite on the Popocas as well as a way to give the motors clearance from the deck and enclosure.
No Tunnel RIsers:
With Tunnel Risers:
Being on the topic of the tunnel risers: you won’t be able to use them the conventional way you would when you have a front-facing mounted motors
There is no space for the wires to come out of, if you try, the mouth part of the enclosure won’t be able to make love with the board. You could probably dermal or cut out the wire holes longer so that it wouldn’t be an issue buuuuuuut I’m a lazy stubborn son of a bitch and tried something else.
First I flipped the Tunnel Riser over, and routed the wires in reverse:
With the wires still long enough, I directed them back into the enclosures motor holes. This worked out because it shorted the amount of wire going in at the perfect length.
My only concern is the tension being exerted on the wires due to being routed like that. Am I right to be concerned? Perhaps I should rescrew the motors on the motor mount to change the direction of the wire to allow more pull.
All in all, I like how the tunnel risers worked out. They aren’t a must need for a shortboard like this, but it’s nice to have.
I did some pushing to get the feel of the deck and @jlabs was right. I found my self often putting my feet in the back truck holes meaning the proton wouldn’t be a suitable place. As such, I’ll be putting it on the front (might even drill Holes closer to the front) and using the front tunnel riser to route it to the enclosure. The wire should hopefully be long enough to reach the master VESC.
I know my drivetrain looks pretty ugly/incomplete at the moment. That’s probably due to the absence of belt covers, but not to worry:
I have them 
at the current moment they’re too long for the Popocas so I ordered a Dremel on Amazon to shave them down, Once I do so my drive train just needs to go an alignment test, have a circlip added, and it’ll be good to go! After that, I just need to get an orbital sander, some primer, and some paint. Once that’s done its a matter of drilling and waiting to acquire the funds to get a second focbox and Phase 1 of the Jet Orca will be complete.
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Geez that motor is really close to touching the enclosure without the tunnel risers. I am actually doing my own spud build at the moment and am waiting on parts. I was just going to use 1/4" risers but it looks like I need a minimum of 1/2" to clear it.
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Is this an unusual build? There still does not seem to be enough space in the tunnel for the wires. Are these wires unusually fat or do we need more clearance?
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The tunnel risers do fit without sensors being routed and just the phase wires.
@Mikenopolis has photos of his riser with a good fit with just phase wires as he’s running sensorless
I’m encountering similar fitting concerns as well. I plan on placing the sensor wires on top of the phase wires to get them all to fit through it
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Yes it looks that way I also have a 1/8 (I believe) rubber riser on the bottom
Since the tunnel riser doesn’t flex with the boards concave.
I think it’s just me not trying hard enough. I might be able to fit them by making the senior wires be squished but they’re the most sensitive wires on the motors do I don’t want to put them through any unnecessary pressure
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Interestingly it does fit as i never considered the gap in the center where the kingpin goes through so there’s vertical room at the exit hole and i tried tugging on the wires and they slide without too much resistance.
Good thing @Jc06505n talked about measuring everything up first.
Note that this is a standard deck and truck that I’ve got around and not what I’m actually going to use in my build(randal 35deg BP with caliber truck)
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Just make sure you round any sharp edged on the base plats interface to prevent damage. Not all trucks offer this option however
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Nice @Wraith! When I disassemble everything I’ll see about trying that.
Btw , for anyone who wants to know the benefits of the Jet Spud:
- Wide ass deck
- Mall Grabbable
- Can fit into lockers !
Was about to do a quick alignment test to see if I need to move anything , but the bels I ordered are too small
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