I’m using these on the spud:
uxcell 8mm Length Stainless Steel 305 Type Self Tapping Threaded Insert 10pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0EV31W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_myX9BbZZRHPVX
Yeah
And those don’t show up on top? Have any pics?
I’ll get kegel wheel adapters done soon! haha! The initial batch will only come with ABEC adapters though (these adapters have been tried and tested for over 400km, so i’m only willing to release this for now.) 
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You can probably spray or brush on some waterbased spar urethane on the spots that get scratched. What scratched it though?
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The don’t show up on the other side. I think you’ve 3mm left.
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Awesome , maybe having a rubber gasket will give me even more, thanks man I’ll order next week
Thanks man and Screws 
Bet then I’ll order some 107 Superflys, thanks man ! oooo this board is going to be so high
Psychotiller has the 107 on sale for Black Friday. Was it just the screw holes cause you could put an x brace from @akhlut on it and you would be fine
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I might go for the 97’s to get it closer to the ground , with the riptide risers and wheels , the board is really high off the ground. I have yet to test how this effects stability or even pushing (since I do want to use this board for an eventual push assist feature) , I’m not all that worried about the marks honestly, thanks man
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Would probably be better if I ask on a Battery thread or unity support but what’s the best cutoff for an 11s Battery? I don’t mind cutting off early like Boosted does to stray away from sag and I also don’t want the cells hitting very low due to balancing reasons (I would be suprised if they were already unbalanced since I haven’t charged them since September)
I’m configuring the battery cutoff on the unity now
11 x 3.2v soft
11 x 3v hard
These will be the values I will use on my new li-ion pack, they are very conservative and hopefully will keep the pack balanced better and last much longer.
Range can be increase by lowering the cutoffs to 2.8v or even 2.5v if your ballsy
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@Jc06505n where did you buy 11s chargers from? I’m thinking about doing a 11s on my haya but can’t seem to find a charger
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You can make a charger with a cc/cv boost converter and 24v psu
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Yeah but I need something portable aswell
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Ok thanks! Pretty cheap too.
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Yeah I’m surprised how cheap it is, maybe due to an uncommon battery voltage
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Thanks man , I’ll try those
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Close to assembly the Orca , just need a few things to come in to fully nail it down land give it a test run.
Drivetrain
I’m currently in the midst of fully setting up the Aortal Drive. I fucked up and left two much space when putting the pinion on the motor shaft, so i ordered a cheap amazon heat gun to redo. Should come by today. For now I’ll run some ABEC’s 97s on it but eventually , I’ll have it running Some 110mm Torque board Wheels ( RIP to my torque). It’s also ganna leave my board way higher and heavier than expected.
Heatsinking
This part of the “building” process is the most frustrating since I begin to seconds the guess the components I’m using and direction I want to take. Right now I’m heavily debating on whether or not of using a heatsink for the unity Eboosted Style.
While it may not seem necessary since I’m not running the Orca at maximum settings, I do think it’s best to improve the system in any way I can. If I decide to go this route , @3DServisas, can I commission you to make a heatsink for the unity ?
Securing Electronics
Another decision hurdle are the electronics. I’m researching both the forum and Endless Sphere for wire management tips and effective ways to secure things against vibration. I’m leaning heavily towards Velcro to secure everything but the Unity (which would be secured via the epoxied heat-sink if I go that route), but worry that I might not be enough.
Right now I’m looking at these wire management solutions:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XNBS6TG/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2W48U3XUS6VVO
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZ5F1Q4/ref=sspa_dk_detail_8?psc=1
Still looking for something elegant that will make maintenance easier and upgrading components a breeze. Hmm maybe Boom tubes along the sides with one side for the xt60 between the unity and battery, and on the other side everything else. Still debating.
Wire Management
My highest concern is wire management , more specifically the motor wires.
As they are now I could wire them straight to the unity wires with a bit of excess , but I worry about stressing them out since I’m limited in the orientation of how I turn the wires. I leaning towards using the switchblade riser I got from @okp, but it needs some modification to suit the Jet Spud and the enclosure.
I’ll need to cut/mill off the mouth part of the riser back to regular riser size so that it doesn’t conflict with the enclosure. I’ll also need to drill out holes since the riser only accommodates one type of mounting holes. Hopefully there’s space for it.
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Well I’m thinking that if you don’t use the riser on the last pic you can still the enclosure to put the cables straight to the focbox and put some glue around them to seal the holes, won’t look superb but will work (adding bad edited photo)
And if you go for the roster you could cut the enclosure to the shape, and that way it won’t be rise that little, and I think this option won’t look bad, because it will combine the 2 parts, and let the cables go under the enclosure with out rising it (adding second bad edited photo)
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