The Pool Boat | First Build | Slide Pool 29" deck | Caliber II 44 | 6374 170kv single | 83mm ABEC | Ebay mounts | TB VESC | 10S 5Ah LiPo | Custom Lexan enclosure | APS controller

After 6 days of read time and checking this site every day for over a year, I think I’m ready to post a build log. This is my first electric skateboard and only my second skateboard/longboard. My first longboard I built in high school woodshop with the intention of making it electric. After riding around college campus for a year unpowered, I decided it was too big and heavy to add motors and carry around for another year (44" long by 10" wide). The 44" deck was built with the intention of electrification using RC parts before I found this forum and the huge community of parts that are available and designed for Esk8. I have lots of experience working with tools and building robots, but buying is always easier than making, and sometimes cheaper.

Deck I wanted a board around 30" to keep it light and easier to carry up stairs. I ended up with the Slide Pool deck from CustomSkateBoards. It was cheap, not painted funky, and short but wide. Got the grippe from them too because it was $5.

Trucks The typical Caliber II’s 44 degree black trucks that are super common on here. Not much explanation needed.

Bearings I live in Oregon and plan on riding near year round if possible. Last year I got tired of my regular bearings getting noisy after rusting from riding in the rain. These are ceramic so should be smoother and rust free.\

Wheels My school’s color are orange and black and I like orange so I picked up some orange 83mm ABEC Flywheels from @torqueboards products/83mm-flywheels-orange?variant=7312743366679

Motor Mount I got the old version of the short mounts from @dickyho. Aluminum is pretty soft like lots of people mentioned and there’s a little slack when fully tightened. Nothing some red Loctite can’t fix. They’re very well designed and I picked up the idler bearing also.

Motor Also from Dicky, It’s not quite 74mm long, more like 70mm but shouldn’t make much of a difference. The wires are only 16 gauge, seems pretty small for a motor of this power. I’ll find out how long it lasts, I haven’t seen many people use it even though his motor mounts are super popular.

Pulleys Again from Dicky because they’re cheap and well reviewed. I got the 40T ABEC wheel pulley and 15T motor pulley. I’m not looking to set any speed records, just get around campus.

Belt 15mm wide and 300mm long HTD5 from TorqueBoards. Dicky suggests a 290mm long belt for 36T pulley so I went a little longer to compensate for the 40T. collections/pulley-timing-belts/products/300mm-htd5-15mm-belt

Battery LiPos are a lot cheaper than LiIon at this point in time and I’m experienced with LiPos from RC cars so I already had a balance charger. I was able to get 2x 5S 5Ah Turnigy Graphenes from Hobbyking when they were on sale for $58 each.

VESC From TorqueBoards. Proven to be reliable especially since I’m only on 10S, not 12S. products/torque-esc-bldc-electronic-speed-controller?variant=722351915031

Remote Control From @ALIENPOWERSYSTEM1 the simple trigger remote. I didn’t want a big RC remote and don’t currently have access to a 3D printer for modifying the case.

Other Parts Random connectors from AlienPowerSystems. XT90S connectors from Hobbyking for antispark keys. Battery percentage display from APS.

Enclosure Plan A - Originally I wanted to use a Pelican case attached to the bottom because it was waterproof and easy to get into for charging the batteries. I bought one from Elephant Cases but it ended up being too long and would hit the wheels. Plan B - Make my own out of Lexan/polycarbonate. I have used polycarbonate lots in high school so I’m familiar with how to work with it. I ended up cold bending a box to go underneath and plan on Plastidipping it so it looks less like a clear lunchbox. I used foam around the edges to try to keep the water out. It’s held on with posts and clevis pins like an RC car body but upside down. It works for now.

Will update this thread with pictures as I have time. I’ve taken the board to class twice now without an issue and it has plenty of power to get up the one little hill on campus. I’m not riding more than 5 miles a day, just between the parking lot and class. I should be able to get at least 2 days out of 1 charge.

1 Like


IMG_0824 Wheels 83mm flywheels from @torqueboards. Thanks for having orange wheels!

IMG_0826 OldBoy Ceramic bearings

IMG_0830 Caliber II 44 degree trucks

IMG_0831 2x 5S 5Ah Turngiy Graphene batteries. 65C-130C discharge. In 10S1P configuration

IMG_0832 VESC and sensor wires from @torqueboards

IMG_0834 300mm x 15mm HTD5 belt from @torqueboards

IMG_0836 Remote control and receiver from @ALIENPOWERSYSTEM1

IMG_0838 Battery percentage display from @ALIENPOWERSYSTEM1

IMG_0839 Random connectors and wire from APS and Hobbyking.

IMG_0841 CorrosionX to use on the electronics as recommended by some members on the forum for waterproofing.

Don’t have pictures of the motor mounts but just look them up, they’re popular or I’ll post some pics of them assembled later.


Cool! I very much like the deck choice :slight_smile:

Old school size is ideal for eboards my 80s Powell is always with me :slight_smile:

Suspect @b264 will agree

1 Like

Yes, I love the deck choice. Those style decks make the best esk8

Thanks! Yeah it’s the same style

I’ve only had it a day but I completely agree. Enough space for everything underneath, small and easy to carry around, and easy to maneuver.

1 Like

Put a 10mm diameter drawer handle on the front, under the nose, wrapped with an ID 10mm “Sponge Foam Thermal Insulation Pipe Handle Bars Rubber Tube Fitness Equipment

You won’t regret it. You just kick it up with the tail and grab the nose handle… so easy…

1 Like

Nice. For now I’ve been grabbing the front truck but it’s not the most comfortable.

Coating the deck Since the deck came as raw wood, I needed to cover it with something for when it inevitably rains.

IMG_0880 IMG_0882 IMG_0883 Here is the deck before I did anything to it.

IMG_0884 This is the finish I used on it. It’s meant to be used on boats so it can flex with the deck and can definitely hold up to some splashes. It’s the same stuff I used when I built my 44" longboard. Just painted it on and cleaned the brush afterwards with mineral spirits. I didn’t take pictures of afterwards, so look at the build pictures or I can post some later.


Starting the build IMG_0924

IMG_0925 This is the weather sealant I used around the edges of the enclosure. Got it at Home Depot.

IMG_0926 I used Dual Lock tape to hold the batteries to the board but still make them removable for charging if needed. The adhesive part is not strong enough to hold the batteries up during vibrations though. I’ll have to look into something stronger to hold up the batteries or maybe I don’t need them removable at all.

IMG_0928 Drawing up the design for the enclosure before cutting the Lexan.

IMG_0929 Paper model of the enclosure to make sure the design works.

IMG_0932 I used a break (brake?) to cold bend the Lexan since it was only .083" thick.

IMG_0933 IMG_0934 IMG_0935 Bends up pretty close to square.

IMG_0937 After taking off the plastic cover.

IMG_0938 This is the epoxy I used in the corners to connect the tabs and hold the enclosure in 1 piece.

IMG_0939 All clamped in place, took about 30 minutes to set and hold.

IMG_0940 With the clamps off. I don’t mind the color difference since I plan on painting it black anyways.

IMG_0943 Adding the weather stripping.

IMG_0944 Weather stripping board side too. I had to build it up some to make up for the concave of the board.

IMG_0942 This was my plan B for holding the enclosure on. Drill holes in the deck and put the pins in through the top. Then cover the tops with the grip tape so they don’t come up/out. I meant to put epoxy in the hole to hold the pin but forgot, turns out it wasn’t needed.

IMG_0950 IMG_0946 Here you can see the pins going through the top into holes in the enclosure.

IMG_0947 Pins in place holding the enclosure up.

IMG_0951 With the enclosure attached. Yes it looks super bulky with the foam. Yes it looks like a sandwich box is glued to the bottom. Oh well for now. In the future I might do one of those epoxy pools and mounting will look cleaner.

IMG_0952 Rear truck without idlers.

IMG_0953 With idlers. 15T/40T with idler and 300mm belts was perfect. Motor was all the way forward on the mount and tension seemed perfect. Since the belts are 15mm wide, they wouldn’t fit between the flanged bearings. I bought some extra bearings and some slightly longer bolts so I could fit the regular bearing between the 2 flanged ones. Works perfectly.

IMG_0955 This is after adding all the electronics onto the board.

IMG_0954 All put together.


UPDATE- Been riding the board between the parking lot and classes for the past couple of weeks, nothing more than 2 miles at a time. I did get bored one day and explore campus so maybe 5 miles that day. Anyway, no problems with radio cutting out or VESC pooping itself, which is good because my college student wallet can’t handle that.

I did break a belt because I haven’t been cleaning out the pulleys or wheels and I have been riding in all weather, including rain. So far no problem with the wet other than maybe causing the belt to break sooner than normal? I did also spray some CorrosionX on the receiver and VESC. It was really scary because it looked like someone poured out a Coke can on my electronics but they they still work afterwards. The stuff is really messy though, just a heads up for anyone wanting to use it.

The enclosure is still clear, I’m thinking I’ll build a smaller one over winter break so I can mount the motor inside instead of reverse and have a little more clearance.

The weatherstripping around the board is great, no water gets in although it is super ugly. Also something to fix over winter break, do an epoxy pool of flatness and then some foam.

The batteries didn’t really stick to the DualLock tape very well so I added a layer of VHB between the DualLock and the batteries so they’d stay suspended instead of rattling around. I had to do the same with the VESC. So far thats working great and nothing has rattled loose.

I’m still getting used to a short board, my feet are at the very ends of the board when I ride. But at least I don’t have to bend my arm when carrying the board up stairs.

Also had to readjust the motor mount. I found its better to use the set screws to hold truck clamp in place, and then tighten down the mount screw really hard to get it to stay in place. The mount does lean a little towards the wheel, probably because of the tension of the belt.

Depending on how long this belt lasts in Oregon weather, I may switch to chain to avoid having to pull leaves out of the idler bearings every time I ride.

Other than those couple of fixes and future plans, everything is working great! Thanks everyone on this forum for help, even if I never directly asked you a question, I was probably inspired by your build or read some of your comments. Great community!


I like your direction with this build! If it were me I would definitely try to aim for smaller enclosure since it’s restricting your ground clearance and just adds bulk. As for the belts, if you have access to a 3d printer, you can try to print some covers in order to limit leaves (and other random things) from messing with your setup. Keep it up!

1 Like

You’d be surprised, on a board with 15" (38cm) ~ ish wheelbase, the enclosure can be super-deep and it still doesn’t hit the ground because the wheels are so close together. I love these types of boards the best!


Really good to see someone not scared off by a little concave :slight_smile:

1 Like

I might try to make a leaf guard out of some of the extra lexan, only 3D printers nearby are the schools and are pretty expensive to print.

1 Like

Yeah it’s great, I can go over speedbumps without rubbing

1 Like

It hurts my back foot a little but it’s probably because of positioning or I’m not used to it.

I believe there are some online resources that will print and send whatever designs you give them (for a fee, obviously) but maybe it’d be more economic for you

Thanks, I’ll look into it. I know Dickyho has a 3D printed cover he sells now too but it wouldn’t be worth the shipping

1 Like

Cool build. Like the clear enclosure. Hows ot holling up? Another Oregon esk8er. If you ever wonder down to eugene hit me up. Not much of a esk8 community here.