After 6 days of read time and checking this site every day for over a year, I think I’m ready to post a build log. This is my first electric skateboard and only my second skateboard/longboard. My first longboard I built in high school woodshop with the intention of making it electric. After riding around college campus for a year unpowered, I decided it was too big and heavy to add motors and carry around for another year (44" long by 10" wide). The 44" deck was built with the intention of electrification using RC parts before I found this forum and the huge community of parts that are available and designed for Esk8. I have lots of experience working with tools and building robots, but buying is always easier than making, and sometimes cheaper.
Deck I wanted a board around 30" to keep it light and easier to carry up stairs. I ended up with the Slide Pool deck from CustomSkateBoards. It was cheap, not painted funky, and short but wide. Got the grippe from them too because it was $5. https://www.customskateboards.com/Grip-Tape/longboard-grip-tape
Trucks The typical Caliber II’s 44 degree black trucks that are super common on here. Not much explanation needed. https://www.amazon.com/Caliber-II-Forty-Four-Longboard-Blackout/dp/B00NY42714/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1535083177&sr=8-4&keywords=caliber+ii
Bearings I live in Oregon and plan on riding near year round if possible. Last year I got tired of my regular bearings getting noisy after rusting from riding in the rain. These are ceramic so should be smoother and rust free. https://www.amazon.com/Oldboy-Bearings-indestructible-longboard-skateboard/dp/B075QLMQW6/ref=sr_1_1?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1535152569&sr=1-1&keywords=ceramic\
Wheels My school’s color are orange and black and I like orange so I picked up some orange 83mm ABEC Flywheels from @torqueboards products/83mm-flywheels-orange?variant=7312743366679
Motor Mount I got the old version of the short mounts from @dickyho. Aluminum is pretty soft like lots of people mentioned and there’s a little slack when fully tightened. Nothing some red Loctite can’t fix. They’re very well designed and I picked up the idler bearing also.
Motor Also from Dicky, It’s not quite 74mm long, more like 70mm but shouldn’t make much of a difference. The wires are only 16 gauge, seems pretty small for a motor of this power. I’ll find out how long it lasts, I haven’t seen many people use it even though his motor mounts are super popular.
Pulleys Again from Dicky because they’re cheap and well reviewed. I got the 40T ABEC wheel pulley and 15T motor pulley. I’m not looking to set any speed records, just get around campus.
Belt 15mm wide and 300mm long HTD5 from TorqueBoards. Dicky suggests a 290mm long belt for 36T pulley so I went a little longer to compensate for the 40T. collections/pulley-timing-belts/products/300mm-htd5-15mm-belt
Battery LiPos are a lot cheaper than LiIon at this point in time and I’m experienced with LiPos from RC cars so I already had a balance charger. I was able to get 2x 5S 5Ah Turnigy Graphenes from Hobbyking when they were on sale for $58 each.
VESC From TorqueBoards. Proven to be reliable especially since I’m only on 10S, not 12S. products/torque-esc-bldc-electronic-speed-controller?variant=722351915031
Remote Control From @ALIENPOWERSYSTEM1 the simple trigger remote. I didn’t want a big RC remote and don’t currently have access to a 3D printer for modifying the case.
Other Parts Random connectors from AlienPowerSystems. XT90S connectors from Hobbyking for antispark keys. Battery percentage display from APS.
Enclosure Plan A - Originally I wanted to use a Pelican case attached to the bottom because it was waterproof and easy to get into for charging the batteries. I bought one from Elephant Cases but it ended up being too long and would hit the wheels. Plan B - Make my own out of Lexan/polycarbonate. I have used polycarbonate lots in high school so I’m familiar with how to work with it. I ended up cold bending a box to go underneath and plan on Plastidipping it so it looks less like a clear lunchbox. I used foam around the edges to try to keep the water out. It’s held on with posts and clevis pins like an RC car body but upside down. It works for now.
Will update this thread with pictures as I have time. I’ve taken the board to class twice now without an issue and it has plenty of power to get up the one little hill on campus. I’m not riding more than 5 miles a day, just between the parking lot and class. I should be able to get at least 2 days out of 1 charge.
Wheels 83mm flywheels from 
OldBoy Ceramic bearings
Caliber II 44 degree trucks
2x 5S 5Ah Turngiy Graphene batteries. 65C-130C discharge. In 10S1P configuration
VESC and sensor wires from 
300mm x 15mm HTD5 belt from 
Remote control and receiver from 
Battery percentage display from 
Random connectors and wire from APS and Hobbyking.
CorrosionX to use on the electronics as recommended by some members on the forum for waterproofing.
Here is the deck before I did anything to it.
This is the finish I used on it. It’s meant to be used on boats so it can flex with the deck and can definitely hold up to some splashes. It’s the same stuff I used when I built my 44" longboard.
Just painted it on and cleaned the brush afterwards with mineral spirits.
I didn’t take pictures of afterwards, so look at the build pictures or I can post some later.
This is the weather sealant I used around the edges of the enclosure. Got it at Home Depot.
I used Dual Lock tape to hold the batteries to the board but still make them removable for charging if needed. The adhesive part is not strong enough to hold the batteries up during vibrations though. I’ll have to look into something stronger to hold up the batteries or maybe I don’t need them removable at all.
Drawing up the design for the enclosure before cutting the Lexan.
Paper model of the enclosure to make sure the design works.
I used a break (brake?) to cold bend the Lexan since it was only .083" thick.
Bends up pretty close to square.
After taking off the plastic cover.
This is the epoxy I used in the corners to connect the tabs and hold the enclosure in 1 piece.
All clamped in place, took about 30 minutes to set and hold.
With the clamps off. I don’t mind the color difference since I plan on painting it black anyways.
Adding the weather stripping.
Weather stripping board side too. I had to build it up some to make up for the concave of the board.
This was my plan B for holding the enclosure on. Drill holes in the deck and put the pins in through the top. Then cover the tops with the grip tape so they don’t come up/out. I meant to put epoxy in the hole to hold the pin but forgot, turns out it wasn’t needed.
Here you can see the pins going through the top into holes in the enclosure.
Pins in place holding the enclosure up.
With the enclosure attached. Yes it looks super bulky with the foam. Yes it looks like a sandwich box is glued to the bottom. Oh well for now. In the future I might do one of those epoxy pools and mounting will look cleaner.
Rear truck without idlers.
With idlers. 15T/40T with idler and 300mm belts was perfect. Motor was all the way forward on the mount and tension seemed perfect.
Since the belts are 15mm wide, they wouldn’t fit between the flanged bearings. I bought some extra bearings and some slightly longer bolts so I could fit the regular bearing between the 2 flanged ones. Works perfectly.
This is after adding all the electronics onto the board.
All put together.