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The Skaters Eskate (strength through simplicity)

This board has a few themes, initially I wanted to make a board that was able to handle transition riding at skateparks so it’s able to ride a snake run or a simple bowl with functional kicktails, but I discovered something better along the way and I haven’t even ridden it yet and I’m already compelled to share.

I wanted the smallest wheels possible, so I opted for the 76mm AHMYO Akasha which is normally an “inset” wheel but Muirskate offers a “cut” version taking the patch down to 50mm and creating a centerset wheel instead. It’s also stone ground and ready to go. I do wish it had rounded edges though and a harder thane for what I am doing.

This is obviously a much better wheel than the Hobbyking flywheel clones as 87.8mm and also smaller diameter which is what I wanted.

I found a new 15mm 36 tooth wheel pulley from Torque for Kegal cored wheels and this allowed me to adapt the Akasha wheels to the Hobbyking single motor drive kit which includes the robust 125kv sealed 2000w motor and VESC.

The trucks are Caliber 44 degree on Riptide 90a APS BS and 90a Kranks RS. This makes for a loose truck feel for a 200+ rider. The wheelsbase may still be too short for practical bowl riding, I may de-wedge during testing and also try some chubby bushings to get these Calibers to feel more like a 169 Indy.

The deck is the Jet Sergio Superslider which is a large double kick hybrid/tech-slide deck. It features a deep concave, wheel flairs/wells and large nose and kick tails. It’s 36.5 inches long and 9.7 inches wide.

I bought a simple aluminum box from Amazon and three cheap 4 cell lipo batteries at 10c, they are 10,000mah each. This gives me a 12cell lipo and it doesn’t weigh much at all!

So far the Hobbyking DIY single motor kit has been the best fitting and functioning parts I have used because they simply all fit together perfectly and that leads me to what I discovered doing this build. Anyone could do this!

I didn’t even use a loop key for this build, I used one simple battery wiring harness to connect the three batteries to one ant-ispark xp90 connector. This thing is super simple and robust and it may not look super great but it’s function is elegant and beautiful.

I racked my brain, like a dumb drunk skater in the shop trying to figure out how I was going to charge this thing, access it’s guts and maintain it easily while still making something tough that could handle the abuse of a “thrasher”. I wanted minimal weight and minimal parts, I eliminated everything I didn’t need.

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Remember kids, it’s important to start with a clean work area! And a beer! Here you can see the simple wire harness, comprised of three xt90’s going to a anti-spark xt90 outside the box. I fit the 3 lipo batteries inside with enough room for battery voltage alarms to fit and you can also easily access the balance plugs for charging. I would love a simple plug-n-play lipo BMS made for such a purpose, then you could just bolt it to the deck and wait for it to catch fire someday.

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I used my quick and dirty ziptie technique to mount the VESC to the box, it’s mounted on EPP foam and I find they breath really well in this location. Of course they are not well protected being on the outside of the box so this time I cut some plastic I had laying around the shop and placed it over the VESC to protect it with some cutouts for the USB and sensor wires. This plastic gave me a secure place to mount the RX as well and I stuck the antenna to the deck with a Caliber truck sticker! I also stuck on the bushing labels because I have so many setups now I keep forgetting what bushings I have in each one as I tune them.

I really don’t like Caliber trucks much, but they are better than the stock HK trucks in the kit and would really prefer to use the Avenue 169 tkp for this project. I do have a set to adapt and try out later. But for now I wanted this build to be stupid easy, as an example of something even a thrasher could build and appreciate.

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The real difficulty was figuring out how to make the batteries accessible for charging and swapping. I settled on a weird idea but it works. I placed hinges on one side of the box, bolted to the box with skateboard hardware and held down to the deck using screws that are meant to hold on rails. I tried to use all skateboard hardware for this build, things any skater would already have. Again the idea here is to make the “skaters eskate”, super simple, easy and functional too.

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Somehow late at night after a couple of beers, this popped out of my brain. I held down the other side of the box using two L-brackets from the hardware store, a skate hardware bolt through the box snaps into the hole on the bracket and locks down the box much more securely than I ever thought it possible. Screws for rails are used to hold the brackets to the deck. In order to release and open the box, you simply pry the brackets off the end of the screws and it snaps open. I couldn’t have asked for a more elegant and lightweight solution. Some EPP foam between the two keeps it snug and I will put on some foam gasket around the edges to keep out road dust. If you wanted to lock it closed, you could simply screw a wingnut on the bolts as well, but I didn’t have too!

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The setup sits low and still has tons of clearance, it has a mean stance and I cannot wait to test it out, of course it just began to rain, you guys know how that works. I you finish a build it will always rain the next day, one of the rules of eskating.

I love how simple this came out. It features no frills, no extras, no BMS, no loop key, no power switch, no charge port, no voltage indicator…it’s just all skateboard…you plug in the battery to the VESC and off you go…oh and you can use the kicktails all you wish because there is nothing hanging out in front or behind the trucks.

Any old silly skater could make this and it’s not heavy either. It even features removable batteries for traveling, and has ample power.

The few parts that I did have to fabricate or solder myself, could be easily made by any company. A simple battery wire harness, a cheap remote, three 14v lipos, aluminum box, the Hobbyking DIY skateboard kit and a skateboard…That’s all it took, the rest was skateboard hardware that any skater already has and some hinges and brackets from the hardware store.

Price, Part, URL 75 Deck: http://www.jetskateboards.com/?room=super-slider-36-5 50 Trucks (44’): https://www.muirskate.com/longboard/trucks/57581/184mm-caliber-2-raw-downhill-longboard-truck 57 Wheels: https://www.muirskate.com/longboard/wheels/72684/76mm-ahmyo-akasha-cut-longboard-skateboard-wheels 23 Bearings: https://www.muirskate.com/longboard/bearings/70875/zealous-ceramic-built-in-bearings 9 RS Bushings: https://www.muirskate.com/longboard/bushings/70380/riptide-krank-barrel-longboard-skateboard-bushings-pack 7 BS Bushings: https://www.muirskate.com/longboard/bushings/13581/riptide-aps-barrel-longboard-skateboard-bushings-pack 14 Pivot Cups: https://www.muirskate.com/longboard/products/72058/riptide-wfb-rogue-caliber-cups 8 Risers/hardware (.25"): https://www.muirskate.com/longboard/products/72447/muirskate-beasto-0-25-flathead-hardware-mounting-kit 19 Aluminum box (9x7x2): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T576KI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 150 x3 4cell 10Ah lipos: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/multistar-high-capacity-4s-10000mah-multi-rotor-lipo-pack.html 20 Anti-spark XT90’s: https://www.amazon.com/Amass-Connector-Anti-Spark-Battery-Charger/dp/B074PTHZ3M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1519669568&sr=8-3&keywords=xt90+anti+spark 280 Turnigy SK8 Skateboard Conversion Kit: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-skateboard-conversation-kit-v2.html?wrh_pdp=3 12 x2 small cabinate hinges: Local Hardware Store 15 x2 L-Brackets: Local Hardware Store instead of rail wood screws you could use sex bolts: http://www.sk8kings.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=S&Product_Code=SK8KINGS219&Category_Code=GU Assorded spare skateboard hardware including rail screws

Rough estimate is less than $800

I will report back to the thread with testing results and any changes I make as a result.

Edit: Added parts list…

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Hey man…still reading. But about the pulleys…

I’m going to be building a short portable board with 74mm flywheels and 48tooth HTD 3mm (45mm diameter pulley). And HTD3 18tooth motor pulley. On some tiny 5055s…

Have you thought about moving to HTD3 for smaller wheels?

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I’m too fat for HTD3 or anything under 15mm wide really…I drive hard and I break hard…and I hate hate hate a lack of belt traction…I think I’m pampered with HTD5 at 15mm…The only thing I can think of that’s better is two of them, lol…for really small wheels chains might be the answer…I have yet to think of options for sub 65mm wheels…but we really need it…just like we need sound gearing options for 107mm…

I was gonna say… that many tooth engagement should be fine. Can you make the belts skip on a boosted? as they use 15mm htd3…

regarding 107s… 15/36(2.4:1), and 16/40(2.5:1) have been working well for most of us here…

I’ve made boosted belts slip pretty easy honestly my 9mm wide htd-5 belts hold more torque than Boosted 15mm wide htd3 belts. Then again I’m very heavy most guys I ride with are half of my weight and they can brake so hard on the boosted that the wheels spin backwards under hard braking with no belt slip. I’ve run dual 9 HTD 5 with no problems and single 12mm HTD 5 no problems.

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I ran a HTD3 belt and pulley(s) setup for about 2 minutes. Me and my fatass made it slip like bacon grease :slight_smile:. To make sure I never have that issue again I’m running 25mm wide HTD5 belts with 26mm wheel and motor pulleys. I can slam the brakes at 20mph and it doesn’t slip.

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Yea… My point to all this was smaller wheels… Less torque required… If you want sub 83mm wheels and a decent gearing ratio it’s HTD3 or nothing…chains maybe…

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I have been messing with chains for smaller wheels…there’s a lack of parts there too…

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What about 14/32 HTD5? it def. fits 75-80mm wheels

Im not sure about the tension req. of HTD3 belts, I quite like my idler pulleys :slight_smile:

51mm diam. just a tiny bit more

I am also using a metal enclosure for my current build but what I find annoying is the amount of dust getting into my enclosure. Since the board is curved, it’s really hard to match the curvature. There is only a slim crevice on the front and a hole similar to that of what you wire out your xt cables on the back and I always get a small heap of sand and a dusty vesc after a full ride. I tripled wrapped my batteries because of this. Don’t know if you have this problem but I hope it goes well. :grinning: :pig_nose:

Have you tried sticking the seal deck side so the enclosure close and meets the center of the seal?

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Use a foam seal.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YQAH50I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You measure the curvature of the board by measuring the width, then laying a hard straight edge across the sides and measure down from that. You will get 1/2in, 3/8in, 5/16in, something like that. Its then easy to match that concave in on the enclosure. At least it is with ABS & other plastics or when making a mold.

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I did, but I was off by a millimeter. :mask: I’ll look into those stripping to kludge my setup. :flying_saucer:

Rain stopped, I rode it…

Omfg…

Ok the combo of hybrid deck with longboard trucks was a risky move I will admit…but done right, wow. The 44 degree or lower trucks with such a short wheelbase is required because it’s so damn maneuverable, you can flip a bitch within 6 feet but when the 12cell hits damn that short base.better be stable…I got no wobbles and hit 20 and also turned on a dime, hit a few angled curbs and it works like a charm…

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Really like how simple this build is :+1: I want to see how those multi star batteries hold up long term.

The batteries are more powerful than I thought, I need to do a distance run and really see how much further 12cell goes over my old 10cell setups…this thing is a joy to ride though! I simply love it…I finally was able to get it out and stretch the legs in some sunshine and the more I ride it the more I like it…I’ll cycle the batteries and fire up strava for a run here soon…I’m loving the functionality of the kicktails, I find myself using them a lot more than I thought, it works perfectly… 5077149578373260087

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Those wheels though… Been thinking I’m going to do a small commuter board ‘skater style’. I have a cab 1 re-issue deck, and most needed parts. I think I’m gonna try and mount a motor to some indy 215’s or some polar bear 180’s with an Aps mount. The wheels were bothering me the most. Wanted to keep it sub 75mm. You find that gearing to be sufficient? Great build BTW. Love the concept and simplicity.

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Would really like to know the height of your enclosure. Is the ground clearance good?

@Lionpuncher Indy 215’s would be sick, I have been looking for a mount for those myself, be sure to report back what you find out. The wheels are the best part of this build, the whole thing is sort of built around using those particular wheels after I saw someone else use them for a penny style setup somewhere around here. the gearing allows for tons of torque obviously, the smaller the wheel the more low end pull your setup will have. Of course top speed suffers, but even with these 44 degree trucks, the short wheel base of any skater type setup will keep you below 25mph just because it feels scary as hell to go any faster on such a short nimble deck. Using tkp like indy 215’s in a setup like this is a great idea, but the tendency for tkp to wobble at anything over 20mph is dangerous, so the small wheels lend to the equation, turning that power into lower speed torque, which is more ideal for cough cough, transition riding or skateparks where you will be at a slower speed, but want power on demand when you need it…

The next step is for someone here to create me an enclosure for lipos that you can slide on, tough enough to protect lipos from impact and destruction but slick enough to board slide on…who’s it gonna be?

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