First off, I’m a boarder. I never played with rc. I was at a skatepark, mountain, lake, or ocean. I love boarding, all of them. So i’ve finally made it here. I need an esk8. I dont know my way around a circuit board but i can build giant buildings so how hard could it be? What you guys do here is extremely challenging. This is my first build. Any advise will be greatly apprieciated.
Trampa Carver
Vertigo Trucks
Hypa hubs
@idea motor mounts
@idea pulleys
2 x Hobbysky 6384 170 kv sensored
Dual FSESC6.6 Plus based on VESC6
2.4Ghz Remote VX1 flipsky remote and reciever
Anti spark Switch Smart 280A flipsky
Bluetooth Module 2.4G Wireless Based upon the nrf51_vesc project
2 x Gens ace 6200mAh 22.2V 60C 6S1P Lipo Battery
i think i still need a bms and a charger. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!
I personally don’t like electronic antispark switches, they have a tendency to fail at inopportune times - A regular XT90-S loopkey is the gold standard in my book for simplicity, cost and reliability.
6.2Ah of batteries won’t give you much range, especially with pneumatic tires - I’d guess less than ten miles if you’re riding conservatively, and probably more like five or seven if you’re going hard. For a mountainboard (I assume you are going that way beased off your trucks and hubs), I’d recommend at least 15Ah, and li-ion instead of LiPo.
The parts list is alright. For a learner, dual 6384 is massively powerful. The hobbysky ones seem to have a lower amp rating than advertised. For a mtb, you want a bare minimum of 10ah worth of batteries. I would recommend going with a 12s6p or 8p 18650 pack, or build a 12s3p pack using turnigy 5000mah batteries.
Dont rush into this and make mistakes. Most people have already made several boards before they build a mtb
I get 5 miles off an old 10s 10ah lipo on dual 6374. The batteries dont sag and have the rated capacity. Riding style chews through 10ah in very little time.
True, but you’d be surprised how quickly that goes by. Especially when going up hills - That drains the tank faster than anything else. With a big battery, you also don’t have to charge it each time. Just top it off when it gets low, and you’ve got several rides’ worth in there.
One of the most often mentioned complaints I see on budget builds is something along the lines of “Dang, I wish I’d bought bigger batteries”, or “How can I add more batteries to my existing pack? My range sucks.”
I like to use a hobby charger to put my lipos into Storage charge when I didn’t used a pack of them. That’s always handy and an easy imax b6 does the job pretty slowly but good.
To charge up my packs I use a 8A charger with a smart bms which allows my to monitor the individual cell voltage
Dont be afraid! Its a great hobby! Just be careful. You are building something capable of popping a wheelie and planting you on the ground. Honestly, i would try dual 6374. It works for me VERY well. I weight 215lbs or so. Take it slow and if you need help, ask. Building it right the first time with good parts saves you alot of money
If you have parts already, just limit the current while you learn.
Thats not an issue with a top mount lipo pack. Easy to swap. If you need more range just buy two more packs and good. More weight on the board makes the ride more uncomfortable for me. So i‘m pretty happy with a 5Ah pack and a fast swap system
Exactly this. Your range is halved at a minimum if you are offroading. A 25mi pack on a mtb would be great. It would give you plenty of offroading time
Just be careful on the brand of lipos. With how short some lifespans are you really cant mix them if they have been used more than a few times. (Zippy, older gen graphene, multistar, nanotech)
@Andy87 is of the fast-swap school of thought. I am of the big-battery school. Plus, with a really large pack, you don’t need 60C batteries, because the drain is distributed across more cells in parallel.
I don’t like taking my stuff apart once it’s done - I like having it all buttoned up and self contained - no balancing and storage charging outside the board.
Not saying there’s anything actually wrong with doing it that way, I just don’t personally like it.
Weight is hardly and issue with a mtb. A performance build like yours will weight about 35lbs. If you have a few weeks to wait, i can build you a 10s8p pack. The lipo option is to use turnigy 3s or 4s packs to make 12s. You would need 12 3s packs or 9 4s packs
Yap that’s totally right. There are pluses and minuses in big and small packs. Personally if I wouldn’t mind about weight I would go with a LiIon pack all the time. No need to worry about storage charge etc.
Lipos i would only use if you want to go light weight and don’t mind to take them out after every ride.
