TIE/ad x1 | 1st Build Trampa E-toxx (Australia)

Hi All, stoked to be here. I started my esk8 journey on an Evolve BGT, but soon realised that I wanted more.

Sold the BGT to fund this here build, so I’ll be bipedal for a while. On to greater things!

Current build list, (street use): Trampa 35* HolyPro 16 ply deck 12mm Vertigo hollow axle trucks Superstar wheels with 6.5” Urban Treads Ratchet bindings (possibly with heel straps) E-toxx Mini Dual Direct Drive (straight cut gears) E-toxx bumper x 2 Alien APS 6384S 170KV motor x 2 HobbyWing Ezrun Max6 ESC x 2 Turnigy Nanotech 5,000mah 6S 45~90C No BMS, using balance charger (recommendations?) FlySky GT2B Transmitter with Mad Munky mod 10ga wiring to put it all together, probably Nomex sleeved

I’m planning to have the ESCs and battery at the front to compensate somewhat for drivetrain weight at the back.

Any thoughts and recommendations are welcome, especially around my No BMS plans. I’d like to keep this build as light and clean as possible.


Ordered the Trampa with Vertigos, E-toxx parts, plus an extra Trampa Infinity shipped to @Nowind for machining, as well as the Max6 ESCs, GT2B and wiring I think I need.

Decided to go for 2x Turnigy Graphene 6,000mAh 4S 65~130C batteries instead, which left me wondering which balance charger to get? A Turnigy Reaktor? Which one? Something else?

There are a lot of chargers outside. Depends on how much money you want to spend, how fast you want to charge and if you want to charge more than one pack at the same time. Don’t forget that for the hk Reaktor you need a separate power supply unit too. Just that add some money on top too. If you look for a cheap and easy but good charger than go with the I charger b6. They about 30-35€. There a AC version which has a power supply inside, or the version with external laptop brick. You can balance charge up to 6s and max 5a.

Would this be overkill? What’s mid-range?

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I have a Junsi 4010DUO, using it since years… choosed the 10S one because i got many 10S Bricks from the E-Drift-Trikes… the junsi is pricey but you get 1A hardware IMO. Dont forget that you need also a good power adapter, for full performance 24V output. I love my junsi but they are also many cheaper options …


so you are going to assemble a 12s2p lipo battery with 10000 mah and 50.4 volts right?so x4 lipo 6s or just 2 lipo so 12s 5000 mah? mmmmh if you don’t have a lipo charger maybe it should be cheaper and more reliable to use a bms charge only, there are a tons of charger and with something like 60/80 dollars maybe less you will buy a good quality 12s bms and a good quality charger… a bms charge only is like 40/50 grams maybe. Also if you save money on charger for lipo you can invest in a vesc 6/escape/focbox unity/focbox cooled or something that can handle a lot of amps if you like the power!! but on the street so much power maybe it’s an overkill. and also another thing, if you have foot straps you will mount your battery case in the middle of the board or under like a urban carver… and escs must be rear positioned since you can’t make motor cables too long this is important!

I’m still brand new at this, but thinking 8S1P actually. Already bought 2x Max6 ESCs.

Welcome :smile: You should make a research on kv of the motors and how combine the kv to the voltage of the battery, and the erpm limit. If you choose a 8s with a 170 kv motor you will have a very high torque but a very low maximum speed, so it depends on what you want! Make a check with esk8calc… IMO The battery you choose it’s not correct. graphene are really expensive because of their performance but for your first build maybe you need not so much amps, and very low capacity, it means less time of fun! That battery is rated for 65 C, 65x6= 390 amps constant ahhaha it’s way exagerate for a dual drive! And it’s a sacrifice of capacity I don’,t know very well the esc you choose but someone on the forum is using that…

Actually it’s not totally right…:grimacing: The C-rating is not a standard and the formula c*capasity= const current is what people say but in real live situation more or less only half of what would be the calculation. There is a device with which you can measure the real constant amps your battery can handle, it’s this device

In my opinion it’s never bad to investigate in good batteries. @malJohann The graphen lipos shown to be reliable and stable also after many charging cycles. The higher C the less voltage sag you get. This results in better performance and longer range in the end. Less stress for the battery means your lipos will last longer. For a MTB I wouldn’t go under 60c 5ah, especially if you go low voltage like 6-8s as with it you usually need more amps out of your pack to get the same performance like you would get with a 10-12s.


i run a mtb 8S1P setup using 2x 4s graphenes with Max6 ESCs. There brilliant batteries, zero voltage sag and i get 6/8 miles range on 8inch AT wheels

That’s what I thought I’d do. 2x 4S Graphene batteries. I’m not a range junkie either.

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could always get another 2 if you wanted more range aswell… performance wise though their excellent and the Max6 ESCs are bulletproof! As for a charger? i just use 2 imax b6ac chargers (around £20each), 1 charger charging each battery for a faster charge, takes around 2hrs at max charge rate.

Do the b6ac chargers need a power source?

no, Its already built in on the b6ac model.

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@Nowind would I be able to run 200kV motors to their full performance on 8S 65~130C batteries?

Also, what connectors and wires do I need to buy between XT90 battery and Max6 ESC, and between Max6 ESC and APS 6384 motors?

Bought 2x B6AC chargers today, a BatSafe charging box, Freebord S2 bindings, and a @MasterCho ChoZen GT2B mod.

Need to buy motors next, that and maybe some electrical connectors are the only things outstanding (boy that escalated quickly).

If anyone can answer the questions above, that would be much appreciated.

I don´t own a Max6 esc but this is what I found on the first google search result •Steckersystem Akku: T-Stecker / Dean •Buchsensystem Motor: 6,5mm Goldkontakt

Yes it´s German :wink: But I guess you get it. The input wires I just would cut the plug and solder a xt90 anti spark on it. Most easy way as your batteries have xt90 too. The APS motors coming with a 5.5mm bullet connector. So I guess you need some 6.5mm male bullet connectors and change them on your APS motors (or make an adapter 6.6 to 5.5)

It’s the APS and the Max6 input end I couldn’t find. Thanks mate!

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Welcome and good luck! :+1:

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