Shame on me! One balance cable was bad … All good now!
No worries Wiring all looks fine The origin of the balance wiring diagram is a local here in Perth (Nick) Cheers
Where do you guys source your 30q’s from in Aus? And is there anyone here down under who is offering a similar service to Kevin or LHB? I would do it myself but I don’t have access to a tack welder.
I think kevin just send you the pack and then you have to solder the BMS andplace the battery yourself.
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This is back to front! Please remove this diagram just in case someone else sees it and doesn’t see that it’s the wrong wiring diagram and fries their BMS! (Y)
Either that or a rubber 6mm gasket 
Could you tell me where the red wire goes?
My bms is currently not showing 10 cells and that red wire that goes to the bottom corner of the board is the one that’s missing
red wires go to cell pack main positve. there may be two or three red wires runnign back there depending on which batch your board came from. There’s always one red balance lead, that goes to main positive. then there is the charge lead from the tiny red connector, that red wirte goes to the pack positive also. Then sometimes there is a third red wire coming from the BMS which also goes to pack positive.
All of those wire independently go all the way to pack positive.
Thank you, will communicate that to my guy
And I misspoke, 4 of the cells aren’t showing up when measuring at the BMS, so we are 3.7 volts low. This is on a brand new bms
When using an old BMS that has some water damage and has problems with the data connection etc we still get the full voltage though
Very very weird
I am ready to put everything back together. I have made a new pack and done the board modification (bamboo GT). Do you guys use any kind of foam/neopren around the pack or between the board and pack, to take some of the vibration? Or is it not necessary?
Use 3M double sided tape to stick the battery to the enclosure, I’ll make you life easier when putting everything back together and I’ll help with vibrations
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I have just finished doing this upgrade my self. Mainly because when I started looking in to this only LHB were just starting to offer this service. Normally I would have paid for this kind of work as I have no experience, and are in general not very good with my hands. But being on the other side of the pond from LHB, I decided to learn how to do it my self. I have spend countless hours reading, looking at pictures, and asking a questions or two now and then. I have enjoyed it! I have mainly been getting my info from these resources:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=70435
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=72026 https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=70435&start=75#p1166305Videos:
It is not the most beautiful pack out there, but it seems solid and safe enough. Let me know if you see it differently
I have learned a great deal, and my craftsmanship getting better and better for every glueing, spot weld, solder and handling of tools I have done. So next time it will be more beautiful - but there will likely not be a next time 
But I enjoyed the journey, and think I will do other e-skate building stuff in the future. I have already some in mind and lined up.
I have done one thing a little different than from others. The jumpers in serial between P-groupes are made longer to take away some of the stress on the wire/solderjoint when the pack flexes. But that became a small issue when trying to fit everything back together, because of extra width nearly all over.
Battery glued in fours, and nickel prepared with solder.
Nickel spot welded.
Jumpers soldered. longer jumpers to take away some of the stress.
Balance wires attached.
Taping up for insulation.
Connecting the balance wires to the bms.
Heat shrink everything.
Routing the deck with a hand router. This took way longer than expected, but I only missed up twice, and nothing seriously.
Ready to be turned around.
Done.
And it actually works!I Just a same that it is freezing here right now and that spring seems far way. Will check in on the battery regularly, to see if everything holds up.
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I’ve been in plenty of situations where the voltage readings just lie about available power.
Depending on what’s actually happening, you can occasionally read a correct voltage then lose it all when the potential collapses as a load is placed on the pack. Its weird, but its all voltage and hardly any current to back it up in those cases. I suspect blown components are responsible. Shits broke, that’s my professional assessment. lol
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Haha okay
I’ve talked to the guy who does 18650 packs in the UK and he thought that it might be a balance wire or the terminal for the balance wire that is a bit fucked
Honestly if the pack works otherwise flawlessly, even at 9s, I don’t think I care thaaaat much.
As long as the bms allows more than eco mode im probably happy, though my battery guy isn’t, haha.
He would like to offer the service to everybody in Germany but obviously won’t if the only experience he had was that shit is fucked.
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a thin or burned out wire can definitely behave in the way we’re discussing. I cooked a balance lead and didn’t know it and couldn’t figure out the weirdness for a long time. Replacing a section of wire was all it took, but damn did it take me forever to figure that shit out when the old volt meter was telling me things that may or may not be true.
Does anyone know the low voltage cut off on the BGT? I know I have seen it somewhere in the tons of posts I have been reading, but can’t remember where. Maybe some of you know the number?
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Hi Everybody,
I am offering this service in Germany now. We are doing 10S4P for Bamboo GT and also 10S5P for Carbon GT.
If you are interested please sent a PM or contact me via WhatsApp 015120940064
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How are you doing the 10S5P? Curious because the only reason I haven’t had my CarbonGT upgraded yet is because I wanted it to be 10S5P
Specifically, where are you putting the BMS
I even didn’t think that the CGT could fit 10s5p. Has this been done?
I’m not sure but the current limit should still be restricted on the ESC so, I don’t know if you could benefit from a higher discharge battery pack unless you program the ESC