Also interested, Brother - the location’s Poland
Hi, I’m getting some bare pcbs from @Shogu12 I think they arrive in the next few days. I’ll give you updates. Thank you
Interested as well. Located in Norway. Please let me know when you have any in stock Thanks.
Restocked! Discounts when purchasing multiple units! 10 Vedder switches can be shipped out immediately. Another 10 available within a week!
Send me one and I’ll test it at 40V/40A
@PXSS only 40A?
Btw: The switches I’m offering now are purple (oshpark). Anyway, the color and the golden solder pads are the only real difference to the ones I offered previously. Same 2oz copper pcb with lovely soldered components
1600W for up to 30 minutes continuously
Are you running 10s or 12s on your board?
Doesn’t the voltage have basically no effect on the heat? 1600W can be misleading since 1V 1600A versus 1600V 1A will generate completely different temperatures. I think I saw an image where he tested his new PCBs on more than 40A but at like 4V
Edit: here it is http://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/no-words-just-pictures-delete-words-use-pm/2992/1311?u=maxid
Yep. The voltage is mostly irrelevant but if this is meant to run at 40V then might as well test it at 40V. The failure mode would actually be quite different now that I think about it
I think there won’t be different temperatures, no matter if 1600V and 1A or 1600A and 1V. At least in the theory.
Basicially I²R losses generate the heat, but also UI since it’s only ohmic load when using my resistor array for example. So if you have 1V and 1600A, you have UI= 1600W dissipation power. To make it possible that 1600A flow at 1V the resistor needs to be 1/1600. So according to I²R it’s 1600²*1/1600 which is also 1600.
Same when using 1600V and 1A. UI is also 1600W in this case. You will need a resistor of 1600V/1A to allow only 1A to flow at 1600V, so again, according to I²R it’s 1²1600=1600W.
So voltage and current aren’t really relevant if their product stays the same. I’m using a 5V/70A LED supply for testing my switches. I already did something like that with the DirectFet switches but with 55A if I remember correctly.
Edit: I went for the 5V/70A for several reasons: A 40V/70A supply would be quite expensive and when testing the switch I only care about the heat generated on the switch itself and not on my resistors, so the heat is dependent on the resistance of the Fets and the traces. Of course you could also do it via the occuring voltage drop… but who chooses the hard way?
You just said it yourself in the last paragraph - what we care about is the heat in your FETs - not the resistors.
Yes, I’m sorry. I completely missed the point here
So I had some time and tested a Vedder anti spark switch with high current. 51A were applied for 20 min, temperature didn’t exceed 63°C (145°F).
Nice work! I would like to buy one, shipped to Denmark! Please PM me about the details, thanks
Your switch will ship Monday morning, thanks!
Sounds great, thanks!
Got my switch a while back, trying to wire a push button style switch, no success so far. Here is the switch:
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Pyt
Hi Pyt,
this switch won’t work with the Vedder Anti spark, you need a latching SPDT type switch.
Edit: Removed the other schematic, it won’t work that easy as I thought.
Best Fabio
Interesting, so adding a resistor turns it into a trip instead of a latch switch? How does that work?