VESC DRV8302 Failures and Repair Options

Better pic is this ok to mount a new chip? See any damage apart from the pin port holders?

Take the plastic off by pulling it over the pins before soldering

that would be the next one, I’ll get there thanks for the advice

I would not use a butane torch as a heat gun. You will ruin the components with the open flame if not possibly the pcb.

Buy one on amazon for like $30

It’s a butane powered soldering iron, there is no flame

The downside is that you don’t know the temperature of the hot air. It may be too hot or too cool. It’s unlikely that you’ll damage components, but just be mindful of that.

Yeah I tried holding the temp meter and soldering torch but too difficult so I switched to a regular iron after the ground pad was hot enough and did the legs that way.

Couple of drv8302 on the way, I am considering getting solder paste for the new chip it just looks so much easier, plus I don’t think you can do the ground with a heat gun of some kind, presumably you can’t apply the tip of a soldering iron directly to the chip?

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I just got a DRV8302 fault when I switched my board to 9S (I just plugged in the batteries on the bench I didn’t ride it. It works perfectly fine with 6S, and when I switched back from 9S to 6S it worked as usual…anyone else have this issue?

Settings please @zepton

Post screenshots

I am using ackmaniac’s modified 2.54 firmware…are there any settings that I have to adjust when I increase the voltage?

From what I’ve heard around here, never change your max input voltage. The vesc gets unhappy when it’s changed from 57v. Also your ERPM is way too high, focbox limit is around 100k, and you have double that in your last screenshot.

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In your case what @gstpierre would not do much, it seems like you are using 6S battery so the max voltage will be 25.2 +some during braking. The +some depends on how hard you brake, on 6S you will not get near 50V anyway so if it means you would have to disassemble your board, it is not worth the hustle. You will not brake it with having it 50 instead of 57 on 6S.

But generally speaking he is correct, no you should not change the max input voltage from the default 57V.

if you are talking about the nunchuk settings, it should not matter either since he is using “PPm and UART” control His erpm are limited in the motor config tab to 60k and -100k but keep in mind he is not using reverse. Having these values set to below 60k in both + and - will protect your VESC but it is a good idea to have tha erpm limited in the ppm “soft rpm limit” setting to a little lower than 60k. I use start at 57k and end at 58k on my daily with 10S and 245kv without problems.

Good to know. What is the difference between the ERPM setting in the PPM window versus the motor window versus the BLDC window? And my max ERPM at 9S would be 50,803 (4.2 volts* 9 cells* 192kv * 7 poles) = 50,803. Since this number is a lot lower than my settings would it even make a difference? (my ERPM at 6S is 33,868)

When I bench tested my board at 9S, as soon as I tried using my throttle the Vesc blinked red and I got the fault, but it still worked when I went back to 6S. I am a little worried to try 9S again in case my Vesc actually breaks.

In that case, I would uncheck the “limit erpm with negative torque” because having that checked would brake rapidly when you reach the set erpm. The soft erpm limit as the name implies will limit the erpm just as well but it wont lock the motor but will increase braking force as necessary to limit the erpm when there is “external” force spining the motor for example going down hill. You will not reach 60k on your setup even with 9S because calculated is with no load, with load you will be lower than the calculated value. It is better to set the soft erpm limit regardless, just to make sure you dont break stuff in case.

Faults like yours that occurs at 6S usually are just a warning before total damage. But that is not always the case, I have had a drv fault when bench testing my vesc two years ago, it was intermittent on 10S and after some help from forum members I got it running and it worked for a year, then my board fell into a river which… well… did not survive :smiley: So I would just keep riding on 6S if you are not getting faults or weird behavior that would make it unsafe in any way and see. If you are getting faults or want to upgrade the setup to higher voltage you will most likely have to replace the chip :confused:

Or maybe if you want to try it you can save your configuration that you have right now, upload fresh firmware, read default config, set up motor detection and soft erpm limit to say 55k end and start to 51k and test your setup on the bench try to reproduce what happened when you had the fault last time. This will either work and reveal that there was some fault either with settings or with maybe corrupt firmware, or it will give you the fault and in that case it would mean that it is the chips fault. I cant guarantee that it will not destroy the chip during testing, but as of right now it seems like the chip may fail eventually on its own anyway… you will have to decide for yourself, depending on time or budget to fix the vesc in a bad case or other stuff

Listen to this guy^^^ He’s a big shot round these parts, I’m the guy who keeps blowing up his vescs. Thankfully I’m learning thanks to guys like him.


So i have been searching but it seems I cant find any drv8302 chips. Any one know if they r back in stock? Ive check but nothing maybe a different site

They are available on mouser and farnell at the moment.

I have a drv fried tb vesc I can sale it for 30usd

Hi, any tips for replacing drv?? I attempted twice but both failed LOL.

call the wizard!


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