I have a 10s4p pack that’s kinda frankenstiened back together because I moved the lcd and had to change the chargeport and on / off switch its a dual 190kv TB motors and 2 vesc x controllers with the mini remote and its worked great till now this problem happened before too and I took everything apart and did some things in bldc tool I think but don’t remember exactly what and it fixed the problem for a while don’t know what the problem was but now its back it cuts out under hard acceleration and wont go again till you tap the brakes then it resets right away but does the same thing again when you accelerate again I want to think I have something in bldc tool wrong cuz ive taken it apart a lot of times and resoldiered everything and it does nothing still cuts out. it runs fine on the bench with no load but as soon as you get on it and accelerat it cuts out. note if accelerate really slow and barely feather the throttle you can get it to go up to speed but the second you give it too much it cuts out . please help motor detection works fine and shows no faults and im unable to keep a laptophooked up while riding . could it be a faulty motor ?
My eyes are hurting, post your bldc settings and pictures of your setup.
on my lunch I will try to snap shots of all my settings and board
I’ll take a stab in the dark. I’m guessing because it doesn’t cut out with slow acceleration but it cuts out with quick and sudden acceleration. I think the problem is your drawing too many amps for your batteries and sagging the voltage so that it’s tripping the Vesc low voltage protection. Maybe your low voltage cut off is set too high.
My eyes hurt even more haha
Motor max 60A Motor min -60A Batt max 25A Batt min -14A (adjust this for braking power)
Max input voltage 57V
I’m not able to see your battery cutoff start and end
Your pics are too blurry. Try using screenshot function.
Most likely the batt max the problem, 60A on each vesc is beating the shit out of that poor 10S4p
So i think your swing in the dark is correct
How did you put your battery back together… I think it might be a bad cell somewhere in your rework.
So what should I set them at
Quoting myself, sounds pretty awsome
I never disconnected any of the cells just the switch and the charge port and moved th LCD screen
What type of switch
It’s a automotive type switch I know it’s not an anti spark but I have a lot of them so I don’t mind if they fail
It starts at 30 and ends at 28
But did made your pack yourself or did you bought it of the shelf…
It’s one of dexters packs from diyelectric
Is it made with 25R cells ? Rumors have it that they sag a lot. But unless your a big guy trying to accelerate hard uphill, I think the switch is still and will always be the problem here
You see, the switch has contacts that are suffering severe arcing every time you turn it on. The arcing destroys the contacts and at the least causes resistance at the switch. Even a brand new switch is ruined the first time you turn it on.
Wait, don’t TB’s batteries come with an E-switch built in?