Assuming your V1 BMS is still good. You can use the cells in the V2 battery pack, but yea the V2 BMS does not work with the V1 ESC. V2 is a completely different CAN system. They chips uses different parts too. I couldn’t transfer any of the SMD chips from the V2 BMS to repair the V1 BMS either.
Ah that sucks but I would be down for the idea of crowd funding someone who has the expertise to hack it.
Yeah I agree I really doubt Boosted will release any kind of information with regards to system being used but who knows you could give it a try and test your luck.
I tried emailing them about a replacement motor recently as the bearings were going in my motors on the board but they said to me that they no longer hold parts anymore and I should either throw the whole board away or just kick push it haha.
Also if anyone does have a spare motor they have lying around please do let me know as I would interested to purchase it.
The battery company quoted £275 to build and replace the pack but if I’m honest not sure if they have dealt with a system like this before.
I’ve got the full set of motors attached to the mounts and ESC. Here are some pictures: https://m.imgur.com/a/VJdaStZ?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app
I also have the enclosures which are in perfect condition, a BMS and battery that isn’t working and a V2 BMS that is working.
Hey, thanks for reaching out. How much would you want for the V1 motors and the enclosures?
You just want me to snip the wires off at the base of the ESC and send the motors and mounts? Or are you asking for the enclosures (Battery and ESC)? Because I’m not sure if I’ll be able to remove the motors from the mounts unless I find a 1/2 Allen wrench somewhere or buy one. I’d also have to figure out how to get the pulley teeth/gear off the motors in order to remove them from the mounts, but I can try 
and I’m not sure about price, make me an offer?
Is here anybody with a working v1 BMS? I really want to check out the can bus signals. I have bought a month ago a broken boosted v1. I am thinking of swapping all the electronics with a new battery pack and BMS + vesc’s. But I like the remote and esc
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I’ve got a V1 BMS with the red blinking light because one of the cells was bad. I’ve also go V1 enclosures in great condition and a working V2 BMS.
Hi I’m in desperate need of a v1 bms if anyone has one for sale, dead or alive.
Hi I have a dead extended range battery
I have a v1 BMS with red flashing lights.
V1 doesn’t have an extended range option.
Great can I buy it from you?
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Yes. DM me with your location!
I don’t know if I can, it may be restricted as I’m a new member
Hi. I am an newbie, and I am in the boat of bricked V1 boosted board users. I have a dead boosted V1 (yes, the flashing red LED problem) and given that the company will not provide any repair support I decided to open it up and see if I can replace the batteries with new ones myself. I have some electronics experience. I was really careful, but it was not easy to disassemble. At this point I have it apart, I think without damaging the PCB. Several of the cells read zero volts. Does anyone have a good “how to” on rebuilding if I purchase a new set of A123 Systems ANR26650 cells? I am wondering if anyone has done this successfully and can comment. Thanks.
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I still don’t have a functioning v1 bms lol but I’ve opened the v2 standard range battery and the cells in it are structured similarly. Same soldering points for the balancing leads.
Seems there must be several thousand V1 users who will eventually start googling around when they find out their ~$2K investment is worthless for want of $120 worth of batteries. There must be someone out there who has the skills and can make money by rebuilding batteries for a price. I would pay cost of batteries + good hourly rate to anyone who could offer this service. Looking now more closely at the battery management PCB, I see that one of the diodes D7 is damaged, so I suspect my PCB is really hosed. If I were to try to disassemble a second time, I would: 1). use a dremmel tool to cut thru and remove the plastic housing over the battery management PCB. 2). with the plastic removed, I would cut the wires to the PCB, and remove it to protect it from accidental electrical overload or mechanical damage. 3). with the PCB removed and protected, I would get medieval on the battery pack and remove it. 4). purchase 12 x new batteries and assemble in the standard way. 5). solder the assembled battery to the PCB. Probably solder the main terminals last. 6). test on the bench and with the charger 7). reassemble the battery package on the board with silicon sealant over the plastic part removed
If anyone has a V1 BMS PCB I would be interested to purchase it so I can try the steps above. Thanks.
If others have tried and think my approach is flawed, I would be interested to hear your comment. I see people have tried to debug the CAN bus messages … etc. I would think if you have a working board and you replace the batteries carefully and correctly, the system should work as before, but with greatly increased range etc. If I can purchase a working V1 battery management PCB, I will try this and document my success or failure for this forum.
you still got that V1 BMS? If yes, what price?
sold already