So I’ve been shopping around for batteries, and I’ve stumbled over some sellers carrying lipo cells. The usable cells are going from 200mah 60c cells to 20ah 20c ones.
I was mainly looking at some 10ah 20c continuous cells, looking to make a 10 or 12s out of it.
Is there anyone here that has some experience with this for esk8’s? I’ve used them for smaller projects and tablet repairs or upgrades before, but never more than a 2 s pack.
“everyone” uses lipo, its not really uncommon
they lend themselves to cost effective high amp builds, but tend to fall off in popularity if insane range is your shebang
Especially for e mtb builds it‘s very common here to use lipos. How you come to the fact that nobody uses them?
I know about lipo packs, going on about building them yourselves out of single cells 
should’ve probably clarified that sorry
They work fine, just make sure to use a BMS
Here are some guys which took apart 6s cells to fit them under the deck for example. It’s also common to use like 4 3s packs to create a 12s. So there is nothing wrong with using 1s 10-12 times in series. Just use a bms
Okay so I was thinking in the right ways, Thx guys, I’ve gotten some deal from someone I’ll be working with so I’d be able to build a 12s 10ah pack for around 200€
On another topic, anyone have a bms they would advise for lipos?
You could get it cheaper at bestech direct, but there you need to buy min 2 units
If you wait you can get a better deal on hobbyking when they have a sale on. I got a 12s 5ah for £36.
I got them too, i wish they would go back on sale!
Damn that’s a killer deal O.o whish I’d have seen than man, atm I can only find decent-ish batteries (6s 10ah) for around 120 to 150 a piece
Mmm, would like to get a bms that is able to provide the 160a the unity apparently could handle, I’ll have a look around on their store
Here you go
I really doubt youll ever reach 160… even on an EMTB, right? 
seems pretty damn beefy
Sometimes it better to go overkill. Puts less strain on the component making them last longer. However, at 12s, I don’t think you would draw anywhere near 160amps but I could be wrong.
Oh I doubt so too, you never know. I prefer not to be cutting down on possibilities. Also as @Octave says, overkill is often better on the components.
In my other hobby, drones, they also said you’d never need anything over a 20a esc and 3s batteries. Right now everyone is at 60a 6s as the new rage 
and now it’s moving back to ultralight builds for who’s a good enough pilot
Thx dude, I don’t even have to look as much anymore since this forum, I might end up getting lazy if I don’t watch out
Just lucky that I was looking for it some days ago too 
I think the Ali bms you can get in 100, 200 and 300 a if you look in there shop.
Just can’t say anything about the quality, no reviews here so far.
Well since it’s around 5 bucks difference for 200 and 300 I’d prob go with the 300, if they’re cheap ING out on components then it can at least handle 160, or should at least… Well I hope so 
There is always the option about bypass your bms for charge only and use a fuse up to your requirements instead. Will save you some money and space in the enclosure, but you lose your overdischarge protection. And not every bms can be used for charge only.