Both one is a Bluetooth module which is required to use the app and the other let’s you change a lot more settings on the pc.
Do you have any photos of your battery that you could send me to show how to connect the bms. I’m a little confused on the schematic
You can check my build log I have some photos there of the batteries and all the bms wires what are you confused about on the schematic?
I’m lost as to why the load (I assume this is where the xt90 would go) is attached to the charge port as pictured in the photo
Charge and discharge are on the same place. It’s + and - from your battery. Once you put energy inside, once you take energy out of it. That’s logic, no?
What Andy said it has same discharge and charge which is basically required for a discharge bms that supports regenerative braking. If you aren’t able to put power back into the battery/past the bms you don’t have brakes
I think I get it, I ordered the BMS and I’ll upload some photos when I’m done installing it. Thanks for the help everyone!
Hey not trying to hijack @tricky-fpv thread but I’m about to install a new 12s4p 30q in my dual 6374 build and after some advice on settings for dual focboxes. The focboxes scare me a bit with their tendency to fry (already blown 2 canbus) and with the extra voltage I need to be careful. What are good battery max settings per vesc that will utilise the extra power without causing meltdown?
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I have decided to go for 10s4p with the 6374s 170kv and focbox esc Dont worry about hijacking the thread mate any extra info is good:-)
Battery current I would set to +30a -10a for each for beginning. If you have a app to monitor your ride than use it and look how hot your focboxes come. If they stay cool like under 60degrees than you can slowly rise up to max 40a. With 4p 30q 80a it’s your battery max
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As an extra qeustion
The anti spark from unikboards
What should i get for my build. Little unsure is this correct for the setup i am getting guys
Check out this switch
It’s a push to start switch with auto off function. But this I think you need to fuse separate as it cut out only at 100a. Your pack will be 80a so your fuse should be the same value. There are different kinds of fuses. Which cut out faster or slower. I would go with a 80a fuse. If it’s slow blow 60a should be fine too. But i‘m not a expert in it. Maybe somebody else can give his opinion about it tooWhat do you mean but high voltage cut off
In theory, start at 3,3v and end at 3,1v will give you less range than 3,1v start and end 3,0v.
a fuse choice isnt related to how many amps the cells can put out and if you short it will be putting a lot more than the cells are rated for. you want a fuse that can do at least what the cells can put out and then some. there’s more energy in the cell between 3.3 and 3.1 than 3.1 and 3. the high voltage cut off is programmed by you on the vesc. you want it high and leave the default alone probably safest as things will get higher than your battery voltage with braking spikes or maybe some other time. if youre only able to charge to 4 volts its not necessarily bad. they cells will last way longer and if it gets you the performance you want …
So I should input that into my vesc and get more range?
I actually got it to 94% now (might just be he battery reader)
If you go with LiIon you can go with a lower battery cut off. 3v some people even go to 2.8v. If you configurat your vesc like this you would get more range for sure (besides you don’t have a bms which already cut off at 3.5v)
You mean battery indicator or battery charger? If it’s the battery indicator, maybe you set it to the wrong „s“ value? The one I had was functioning from 5-14s once for lipo and once for LiIon. So i needed to set it up to my battery configurat to get shown the right values