I’ve sent them my feedback and they’re very responsive. Let’s see how it goes. They’re keen to get it right!
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UART Dosen’t work over CAN iirc. You need to splice the TX and RX connections and plug them in parallel into the second VESC
I asked them about lifetime mileage under their youtube video, they told me that it doesn’t support it yet, but it is possible to get this feature by modifying the code. However their code is not open source, so they need to implement it.
That means we might get this feature in updates. Try to write them as well, more people asking to have this feature, the more chance we will get it.
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Uart works fine over canbus. I just needed to update my vesc tool and firmware on the focboxes.
It’s a bummer that it’s not as good as it could be. Would’ve been one of the best value remotes you can buy.
I’m still crossing my fingers for some improvements.
If you look on the few test remotes including the one I have the final version will be better: The sample case is done via fast silicone mould instead of injection mould, so it’s not as strong and good as that of injection. Also, the screen will be clearer.
You said the screen isn’t bright enough to see on sunny days? Bummer. Is yours the final product?
I hope not.
Flipsky just told me that there will be a version specifically for the Unity and that they working on it. So I guess hope is not lost. Fingers crossed
On my remote all that it takes to switch between VESC and UNITY is to move a “//” in the code on the Arduino IDE. One remote. Two ESCs.
I’d like to inject an opinion about the OLED screens on remotes including mine. If you ride with a metr Pro or something similar, you’ll forget about the OLED. You’ll only use it for battery and settings, but not telemetry. It’s cool… but it’s not a big deal. The things left to consider after that are the quality of the build and the precision of the instrument.
Honestly, I’d stick with their old model and use a metr Pro.
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Me too. I ordered 2 …
I’ve had a little more help with this and managed to reduce the dead-band very slightly by reducing it to 0% in the nunchuck app. (It’s still really big) Also altered the throttle curve slightly to ease into the brakes and throttle to help with the uncertainty when try into anticipate the braking or acceleration. Today if it drys up I’ll be able to give it a go.
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I’ve ridden today after reducing the dead band and altering the throttle curve and good news is that it is quite rideable. I’ve spoken to flips and the engineers are looking at reducing the deadband on the production ones so we should be good! They are also looking at brighter screens. I’ve got a week or two now of using the board for daily surf checks so any progress or problems I’ll report back.
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Just got my vx2 remotes today. First impressions are its a little thick in the hand compared to the vx1. It doesn’t have a nipple? Thing on the throttle and feels weird(maybe ill 3d print a custom one). I do like how much throw it has compared to the vx1 or nano for smoother acceleration and breaking. Screen seems very bright to me.
Edit: I’m 6’3" with bigger hands and it still feels alittle big for me. Just a fyi for anyone with smaller hands it maybe to big.
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How is the deadzone? Is it too big like other have said?
Um i didn’t notice any difference really to the vx1 but I will pay attention more next time I ride tomorrow.
Great, also what esc are you using?
I tested this on my gf flipsky 4.20 duel plus but mine is the flipsky 6.6 duel plus.