Will this work with the sensor plug on Alien Power system motors?
Hey everyone!
I’m having a small issue with my unity. Motor side 2 doesn’t want to detect my motors hall sensors.
I’ve tried swapping motor & sensor cables (not swapping which port they go into on the unity) to the other side and it’s always side 2 that doesn’t detect the hall sensors.
I’ve also tried putting the sensor cable (phase wires included) that goes in side 1 over to side 2 (swapping the port that the connector goes into) and then the unity detects the hall sensor for side 1. Still not side 2 though. That’s why i’m pretty comfortable to say the the motors are not the issue. They are also brand new.
The result of this is that motor side 2 runs sensorless. The board is ride-able and has okay startup but it’s pretty annoying to know that one side is sensorless… I’ve enabled traction control which compensates the issue on startup a bit even though it’s still noticeable.
Does anyone know what can be causing this?
I’m sure I forgot to post some important information to figure this out, so feel free to ask
I’m also using some adapters from my motor to the unity and I have confirmed both works by swapping connectors around like mentioned above.
TL;DR: One side of my unity doesn’t detect the hall sensors.
Any help is much appreciated and may you have a wonderful day
edit:
Im using firmware 23.44 on version 1.3 Focbox UI on windows.
I’ve also tried the unity android app and metr app and none of them detects the hall sensor.
If you’re feeling mildly brave/curious, peel back the orange silicone on the unity and take a look at the solder job on the motor 2 sensor connector. Does it feel loose to you at all?
My original unity had an issue with mismatched flux linkage measurements that ended up just being a badly soldered resistor.
Looks absolutely fine. Not loose or anything.
It’s probably also worth saying I already voided my warranty. I soldered new bullet connectors
Last time I asked bullets were fine. Even XT90 was fine. Only if you have the platinum warranty that is.
I have platinum and I was told bullet connectors were NOT okay. Idk tbh. Let’s just say warranty is not voided then
what causes cogging…
Are you running sensored or unsensored?
sensored…
Are your sensors detected correctly?
Maybe you can make a video of the coughing?
yes they are always detected without a problem…it’s barley noticeable…more of a feeling than something you can see. feels like someone grazed the breaks…not enough to throw me but enough for me to feel it. it only happens at low speeds and while long breaking.
I swapped the batteries in my remote and went out to do the video and it’s gone again…i didn’t get the cogging thing not one time. My clamp slipped on me again so i had to end that ride. Good thing my press-ons from SeanHacker were delivered today. could a low remote battery cause that?
Did you swapped batteries, or is your remotes battery low?
Low battery on the remote can cause misbehavior.
You say it’s most prominent when braking?
How accurate is the consumption indicator of the unity app?
I have a 12S4P 30Q pack and fully charged it shows 92% (49.3V). After 15km i have 52% left (unity app indicator) and a consumption of 11.7Wh/km.
I dont think i could made 44km (518Wh/11.7Wh/km).
more so while accelerating at slow speeds. I have the torque boards 2.4 MHz remote so i was using some off name batteries i swapped those out for new ones.
With the new batteries cogging is gone now?\
yes i think so. I only made it about 7 blocks before my motor mount clamp slipped …AGAIN and had to end the ride. I don’t even know if the batteries were low or not. i did notice the light blinked a couple of times this morning after arriving at the job. It happened on my way to work a couple of times.
Bad reciever placement can also cause misbehavior. Is the blinking light you saw indicating the remotes signal or battery state?
I’m not sure i fired off a message to torque boards asking …the light blinks when pairing so i would guess the one light is for the signal. where’s a good spot for the receiver. right now it’s next to the Unity in the area where it plugs in.
I guess you mean where the main discharge leads from your battery plugs into the Unity?
Try to place the reciever as far as possible from any wires carrying high currents as your phase wires from the motors and main discharge leads, also try to get some distance between the Unity and reciever. Some people make long extension wires and are placing the reciever in the front of the enclosure.