It was brought up in the discussion right around where he mentioned he was still in high school. GCSE particularly pertains to grades 7-10…
So you potentially gave a 7th grader the advice to set his board to accelerate at 1500W based on the fact that “All your friends are not children”. Do you see the flaw in that? You need to have more common sense.
Either way, I just brought it up so @longhairedboy could see where we were coming from and why we advice against your settings
Lets not further derail @Yoshi14646 thread. If you want we can PM
And thats your problem! We do have some good, working standards here - tested and proven by lot´s of members here.
If you can optimize something about them - fine! But pls test everything and see if others see that same improvement and THEN! you can help others with a new and good working standard!
yah! So ask him about Vesc screenshots and detailed information about the battery and not throwing around with wild numbers, if you don´t know his setup!
Back to @Yoshi14646.
With a 2P setup of those cells you can set the battery max amps to 40 and the max motor to like 60 A for the beginning. You can also try 80 but do 60 first.
Then you should set your Battery cutoff start to 36V and the Battery cutoff end to 33.6V.
You also need to set the Max ERPM to 60000 and the Min ERPM to -60000. And i would disable the “Limit ERPM with negative torgue”.
Then you should go in the PPM tab if you use a ppm remote and activate the “soft ERPM limit” and set the ERPM limit start to 58000 and the ERPM limit end to 60000. Because with your 245 kv motor you could easily reach higher ERPMs than the VESC can handle.
If you use a Nunchuk then set the ERPM limit start and end there.
I understand what you are saying. But It’s hard to say in that particular example because my son has been rebuilding 2 stroke engines in his dirt bikes since he was 12, and now, at 15, he’s been experimenting with VESC settings in his own boards he built from scratch. Handing him a Ninja with a programmable ECU would be like giving a 3 yo all day with mickey mouse in a cake and ice cream factory. He’d shit his pants and then take off and i wouldn’t see him for days. Then he would tell me he did 130 on the interstate and i would yell at him using all manner of imaginative expletives, possibly even offering to throw his face on the street myself and discuss how it would be more efficient than having a $10,000 bike do it. Then we’d go inside and act like nothing happened, as men do.
So what i would probably do is argue with uncle devin for a minute, see what my son thinks about the dangers involved, then hand him a helmet. If my son was a nitwit he’d be inside playing candy crush and trying to get laid on facebook, not doing his homework first (straight As) and then testing our own bleeding edge prototypes we built in our garage based on the desires of people who have cash to burn on exotic custom electric skateboards while discussing the impact that Mango Mussolini will have on my supply chain.
But i definitely see your point, and it is well taken. The struggle I have with this is that his facts aren’t wrong, he just presents them in a way that makes people want to ignore them or call him a zealot spammer. Honestly if i had the money I’d hire Devin and keep him to myself and mine his intellect until he had nothing left to post here. But the real problem here is that this audience is a mixture of noobs and experts and everything in between, so while conveying information in one way is beneficial to one band of the spectrum, it may irritate others and even raise genuine, legitimate concerns like yours. He is also clearly comfortable with debate, which is something a lot of people aren’t and misconstrue as argument.
So the real question then becomes, to whom does this forum cater? Everyone? The elite? The noobs? When left with such a conflict, most would resolve to stay within their own native tongue so to speak, which is what Devin has done.
I’m just not a fan of excommunicating people due to failed communication tactics. Especially when they can simply be ignored.
The Math aren’t wrong… but in real world you have to take in consideration the limits of your electronic… witch he doesn’t, and could lead to serious injuries and broken vesc…
First: Mosfet on the vesc are rated for 239 Amp at 10V for temperature of 100 degree (yes 100 degree, because you have to take heat in cosideration)… So basically at 36V the number of amp the mosfet can endure is way less than 200Amp
Second: there is not enough copper on the Vesc to endure 200amp
Third: Motor can support 200amp, but will likely overheat, isolation will melt and will leave you with a shorted motor under your feet, that is probably gonna to send you farther than all Apollo mission…
And the list just go and go…
SON IN THEORIE HE MIGHT BE RIGHT… BUT IN THE REAL WORLD DON’T TRY THIS, YOUR JUST GOING TO BLOW YOUR VESC OR HURT YOURSELF
And since safety should be a important thing on this forum… theories that could lead to any injuries should always come with the proper warning, and if your not able to see the danger behind and keep and pushing your theories as the absolute truth… well you might need a slap in the face IMO.
Theory vs application. It’s something that has kept me on the conservative side of VESC settings all this time for all of the reasons mentioned above. It’s easy to get caught up in the theory. It’s fascinating stuff.
Hi all sorry for the late reply I hit the limit of replies in 24 hours,
Thank you all for contributing to this discussion, and yes I am still a noobie when it comes to the VESC and Electric skateboards so all tips are helpful.
Just a bit of background:
I am still a teenager and currently in Grade 10 in the IGCSE program looking to complete his paper work to get a good grade, I decided to take on this project as seeing all the videos and photos of the projects completed on this forum inspired me to do so. I foolishly thought that assembling and making a motor mount is all I needed to do after purchasing the parts, I have so far burnt out and short circuited a Lipo battery making it unusable and drilled 10 holes into my board which I don’t even need .
Current state:
At the moment I am buying a motor mount that fits the 63mm and have the battery and motor ready. The only problem remaining is the VESC which is why I opened this discussion. Which many have tentatively replied to and thank you guys for that .
The battery is the Samsung 30Q 3000mah and are Lithium-ion, 6s4p 24cell rated 22.2 max 25.2v, 11600mah.
The gear ratio is 15T to 60T so 0.25 turns, 15 being the one attached to the motor and 60 being the one on the wheels.
The Motor I am using is the Turnigy Aerodrive SK3 - 6364-245kv Brushless Outrunner Motor. (Stats Below)
What I need:
As many of you have stated I am in fact very clueless as to how all this works despite taking many lessons on electronics . My problem was that I can’t get the right ratings on the VESC to pump enough power to the motor to push me, I am currently 77kg which makes me heavy but shouldn’t be much of a problem. I have seen many people use the same setup as me with the 63mm Turnigy motor and the VESC, I wanted to know what ratings they are using. I am aware as @devin said many people have preferences as to how many W they want to pull and how fast they want to go, I am fine with any ratings as long as it will push my 77kg along.
For what you whant to do… you won’t be able to acheive it with a single setup… belive me, I’m 80kg and I’ve quite a few motor trying to push them too hard, specialy because at 245kv uour motor is more for speed than torque
So for what you trying to acheive with the motor you have, you need a dual setup or chaging for a single 6374 at around 190kv
60T pulleys are usually used on 100mm+ wheels is what he means. But you need them because of your Kv value.
Can you take some pictures when you get a chance?
That would help some of us here.
I am still having a hard time fully trusting the battery you have. No offense. Can you measure the voltage across the main leads when fully charged and give me that number.
The reason I have a hard time believing you have a 6S pack is because your VESC is configured for a 12S pack based on the screenshots above and it should not work at all with those settings unless you have not set it up yet.
The settings @Ackmaniac suggested in post 61 work well if you have a 12S pack. If you have a 6S pack then they wont.
Not only that but the pack configuration affects your max speed and torque available and 6S to 12S is a pretty substantial difference.
Yes i meant the ratio of 1:4 does not sound right… especially with not pneumatic (5+ in) wheels…
So the question is - what pulley tooth does @Yoshi14646 really have… the biggest ive seen is 40T for the lonboard urethane wheel…
Plus, i could agree, that settings for vesc could be messed up.
Sidenote - 190kv motor with 230mm (9in) 6s (li-ion), car esc and 1:4.33 ratio can start slowly from standstill if rider weight is below 70kg or so.
Not sure what ratio, wheels and weight + motor kv needed for longboard to start from standstill
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Im 90kg and can also start from standstill with a bit of jerking. Not sure does vesc would be doing much differently but i thought to share whats (at what setup) is working for easy startup
I totally forgot to mentioned the option that perhaps he is having htd3 toothing… Thanks for pointing this out, as this might explain the high tooth count he has…
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. My problem was that I can’t get the right ratings on the VESC to pump enough power to the motor to push me, I am currently 77kg which makes me heavy but shouldn’t be much of a problem. I have seen many people use the same setup as me with the 63mm Turnigy motor and the VESC, I wanted to know what ratings they are using. I am aware as 