yeah… the cases are way to big for a normal esk8 but mounted on my Trampa they are fine.
I have spoken to Flipsky about this and I think they are going to design a new case without the power switch so you can mount it externally. They are also planning a dual case & a dual FSESC6.6 (like the Enertion unity).
I just got an email from FS saying that for their second batch they are scrapping the button for the anti spark. They gave me the option to wait or to ship the one without the button for a $36 discount.
Would hope the release a dual FSESC with a single power button with LED and house it in a dual enclosure
so by the looks of it so far the FS esc are worth a try. Did anyone test the FSESC 4.12?
Hummie is getting some.
And they are even cheaper on eBay. £46
doesnt ship to germany. but i found the same price on aliexpress. wait i just searched for another name and found some on ebay
Did it try this one. If I choose Germany it says free shipping so should be fine. https://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/taobao-aliexpress-bangood-alibaba-all-the-chinese-deals-here-community-log/57716/17?u=rey8801
Are they making a new case as well?
Did you cut off the 5V on one of the ppm cable?
Yes i have
No time so far to ride again. Hopefully some time over the weekend weather permitting.
@Benjamin899 … we did … see previous post. It was the second one we tested. Worked OK, but case is not a heat sink so max watts constant are same as BV video on v4.12 hardware … approx 23v / 34a constant. No particular issues with them. Didn’t fail during tests. The are spending a lot of time getting this right. Once we’ve tested the V6 with heatsink case, I’ll share the data. Cheers
Dude, that’s dangerous, the full current of the FSESC that you didn’t turn on is running THROUGH YOUR SPLIT PPM WIRE. The on/off switch is a low side switch, the split ppm wire connects the grounds of the two FSESCs together. When one switches on, the other one now has a path to ground though the PPM wire. Disconnect one of the ground wires on your split PPM cable. MAKE SURE YOU SWITCH BOTH OF THEM ON OTHERWISE YOU’LL BLOW UP YOUR PPM CABLE.
This is why you don’t f***ing implement a low side switch for this sort of application. IMO, looking at the board they had plenty of space to add something like an LTC7000 to do high side switching with the 3 N-channel MOSFETs. SMH.
Alright, so I went to the hilliest place I know near me… This was with a dual hubmotor build on FOC. These thing help up very strong! Did go from 100-70% in about 3miles in 20minutes so range went down a bit given the terrain. Temp went from 100 F to 115 F… It was about 105 F outside… This isn’t my normal test ride since I don’t really go there too often. So this test is pretty limited, I can’t exactly put hundreds of miles in this place in a reasonable amount of time. However from what I experienced today I believe these ESCs are very good right now. I’ll keep them on FOC and use as my main ESCs for right now.
I disconnected one of the positive wires on my PPM cable. That not correct?
No, you must disconnect the negative wire on one of them. The negative wire is what connects the grounds of the ESCs together. If you leave both of them attached then you must make sure both ESCs are physically switched on before you use them. If only one is switched on, then the other “thinks” it is on because it sees ground through the negative wire of the PPM cable. What the on/off switches on these ESCs do is it connects and disconnects the ESC from the negative terminal on the XT90 connector. What your PPM cable is essentially doing is bypassing this through the negative wires.
I run only the PPM wire to the second vesc, it works for me.
ahhhh… ok now it makes sense.
What I want in the end is to have both ESC’s connected via split PPM but if the ESC that is supplying power to the recevier dies the other ESC will be able to power it. I’m going to assume that a BEC is what I’m going to need?
There are two ways you can do this, BEC or (Ideal) ORing Diodes.
A BEC hooked up to your battery will do the job just fine. Connecting this to your receiver means you only need to connect the signal wires to the ESCs. It’ll be the simplest and easiest solution so I recommend this.
If you don’t want to get a BEC, the other solution is a little more tricky. You need either a pair of Ideal Diode ICs or a pair of Shottky Diodes with a very low forward voltage drop. Normal diodes would be much simpler and easier to wire up Something like this https://www.arrow.com/en/products/sbr12a45sd1-t-01/diodes-incorporated looks like it will do the job. (Forward drop of ~300mV at 1A). What you need to do is splice the POSITIVE 5V wires and solder these shottky diodes IN SERIES, with the cathode POINTING AWAY from the ESC. So this means each ESC will have a shottky diode pointing away from it on the 5V wire, before they both meet at the PPM splitter. It will look something like this
ESC#1 +5V -----------|>|-----------Splitter ESC#2 +5V -----------|>|-----------Splitter
Splitter -------------------------------Receiver/
Both options are perfectly safe done correctly. (The latter is employed in automotive and industrial applications. It is called Redundant Power Supplies.)
Honestly, it is a huge oversight that the VESC and its derivatives don’t already employ ORing diodes on their 5V outputs when it was expected that many people would be using more than one.
Grr, makes me want to develop my own ESC that fixes all the hardware problems/oversights present on the VESC and its derivatives. 
That is where this forum is split. Those who are EE majors and those who are educated hobbyiest. I haven’t heard of an ORing diode configuration until you said so. I tried on mine to add a TVS diode to places not original in the VESC 6.4 schematic. It’s probably two more layout changes before I finally call my derivative done.
