Not specifically. As I understand it (I’m NOT an expert on batteries - just barely knowledgeable), the “C” rating is the constant amperage the individual cell is rated to deliver. I was simply referring to the principle whereby higher current draw results in slightly lower capacity. The point I was trying to make is that if you go faster (i.e. demand more current from the battery cells), capacity will be slightly less than if you go slower. However, as Jason (onloop) has pointed out, motor efficiency is also a factor and needs to be considered. Meaning at slower speeds, it may actually consume more battery due to the motor running at a less efficient RPM (at least that’s what I understood him to be saying).
At the cell level the different brands & models of 18650 type battery tend to have lower C when they are Greater MAH Capacity, however, this becomes less obvious when new technology is bringing better capacity & discharge rates into the market
Samsung 25R & LG He2 at 2500mah offer very high 8C so 20A discharge Samsung 29E at 2900mah is just 2c for peak of approx 6A
The relatively NEW Samsung 30Q at 3000mah is 5c for peak of 15A
So in this case higher capacity mah tends to mean lower discharge rates.
ALSO, the faster you discharge each cell (more current used) the quicker the battery is depleted to an unusable voltage. So larger capacity batteries say 2900mah with lower C rating might not actually last as long as a 2500mah with higher C rating when being discharged at higher rates. So it requires more in parallel which becomes hard when building an ESK8 due to limited space 10S4P is probably the MAX
So the question is what is the usable capacity of the cell? vs what is its labeled capacity. More MAH per cell does not mean a battery will last longer (More total mah due to cells in parallel is different)… At a cell level, it is all about performance under load… this is why I choose the cells with higher C rating. There are only two cells that are feasible for a 10S3P eboard battery, they are ones that offer 8C (20A each cell) any less and I don’t think they are a good option.
That is when a 10S4P battery becomes interesting, because it opens the door to using lower C rated cells as there are more in parallel. But if I build a 10S4P it will be using 8C rated cells & it is guaranteed to be 33% more capacity on the label & in real life, but might end up running longer then expected due to a lower discharge current per cell…
some more testing will need to be done to find the answer. I think @whitepony has done some 10S4P testing with 8C rated 18650.
At the end of the day 10S4P is going to be very nice just expensive!
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yeah that’s what I was saying.
More Specifically the amount of times you stop then start again combined with lower average top speed. The hardest job of the eboard is getting the load back up to a high speed, sustaining it is easier because the motor is working at its optimal RPM. So once at high speed the load is much lower on the cells. And, of course, once you are at top speed you travel further in less time.
The problem then becomes wind resistance, any faster than about 50-60km/h starts to become a major problem.
So MAX speed of approx 50km/h is a nice limit! (any faster is dangerous & also requires huge amount of power to overcome the wind resistance) This is why I build the raptor boards to achieve this 50km/h max (about 45km/h in real life) speed on full charge, it is also very close (8000rpm) to the theoretical optimal RPM (8600) for small Brushless Outrunner.
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So I need a clear rum for 30km at full throttle. Insane. Love it.
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Yes, you will certainly need a lot of rum for 30km of full throttle! 
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Any Raptor owners try removing a raiser? Every time I go for a foot brake (which isn’t that often) I nearly eat shit because the board is so much higher than I’m expecting. Looking at the board, it appears the motors may be in danger of rubbing against the motor wires with just one raiser, but was curious if any owners (or Onloop) had given it a shot…
I replaced one riser with a softer 1/8 inch riser, but I had the motors rubbing the wires on turns because my wires weren’t laying completely flat along street side of deck. I used a heat gun to heat the hot glue holding wires in place as they exist the battery enclosure and repositioned the wires, so they lay flat. Good to go now. It’s worth it imho softer ride and noticeably lower to the ground.
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You would also need to get shorter thread screws for trucks as once you remove the riser theres not enough thread on screw to actually screw on nut tightly.
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That’s so dope!! I was also thinking about making the trucks match the Abecs… Really nice paint job you did there bro. And are you also only using one truck riser?
Yes just one! But the motor cables are damaged a bit. I can take a foto if you want. Make sure you glue them to the board as close as possible in the motor area.
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Yeah please, as much info I can see the better. Really dont want to mess mine up (when it arrives)… Which I’ll totally do lol
ps: you’re using 83mm 75a Abecs yeah?
Hows the board going?
Actually now looks very discreet. Helps that the motors are inboard under the deck. Like it though.
Also noticed the handle looks alot better than the OEM one. Looks like you can actually put your fingers through it.
I am very interested in buying the raptor but have a few issues I was wondering if anyone could help me with.
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Should I buy it created all together, piece by piece from the website or buy the parts in the kit and buy additional parts not included like battery and carbon longboard?
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Which is cheaper bought all together or by kit?
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Will newer styles becoming out like larger batteries and design but same specs or just small fixes that a computer can fix so I should buy now and not instead of 6 months?
I’m sorry but what’s the purpose of the photo?
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Skatan RED Wallpaper maybe?
