I tested 12.5A of batt min and it brakes better at high speeds, at low speeds it lock the wheels sooner. I wonder if I could increase max batt to -70A instead of -60A?, could that pull back too many amps into the battery, I have a 12S4P with Samsung 30Q?
Dual 6374 190KV are a beast demoniac beast, once they reach the maximum efficiency RPM they pull like if a car hit you in back! I love it!
I think you have that backwards. Batt max should be a positive value and batt min should be a negative value. For dual VESC the highest your batt min (regen) should be is -8 per VESC since the 30Qâs take a max charge current of 4A each.
4A * 4(parallel) = 16A / 2 VESCs = 8a charge current per vesc, which means you should use -8A per VESC
Thatâs correct, I made a mistake, what I really wanted to say is:
I wonder if I could increase motor min (regen) to -60A instead of -40A?
Iâm at -40/-40 now. When I was at -60/-60 with Kalyâs 6355âs I nearly flew off my board braking!
For reference Iâm using -8/-8 batt min
So would there be any harm to raise motor min (regen) from -40A to -50A for each VESC?
I thought motor min (regen) -40A from each VESC meant -80A total, that meant -20A of regen back to the batteries on 100% duty cycle, so if you are braking on 25% most of the time they would be charging at 5A, at 50% DC 10A. I wonder what would happen when you apply 100% DC for a small fraction of time, will the motors send -20A to the batteries, would that be safe?
So I did a flexiness test today, of course I forced it pretty bad, this wonât happen on any circumstance on the real world ever, just wanted to show how flexible the 14 ply deck with enclosure is.
motor min is only the current in the motor when braking, not going into the battery. Youâll only regen when you brake when going faster than your full throttle anyway.
Where would this current go if it does not go to the battery?
What does it mean by âgoing faster than your current throttle?â like going down a hill breaking?
From my understanding, itâs dissipated as heat in the motor. In order for you to regen charge, your BEMF voltage needs to be higher than your pack voltage (similar to how you charge with a 42v charger for a 10s pack). Voltage will only flow from a higher source to a lower source. This site explains it better than me.
In this case CEMF == BEMF
In certain situations the CEMF may overcome the battery, in which case the generator component becomes dominant; the motor acts as a generator inverting the direction of its current and forcing it into the battery.
The typical situation is the one of a heavy vehicle rolling on a sharp downhill slope and forcing the motor to turn fast enough that the CEMF becomes larger than the battery voltage. As soon as the motor overcomes the battery it inverts the current direction and starts feeding current into the battery, while developing a counter torque that acts as a brake. This phase is called regeneration (recharging of the battery).
Lots of wrong information here. To take it easy Motor max = power at low and mid speed Motor min = brake power at low and mid speed Battery max = power at high speed Battery min = brake power at high speed.
And try to get a basic understanding of duty cycle to understand how motor and the battery amps work together. At 100% duty cycle motor and battery work at the same amps. At 50% motor works at double the amps then the battery. At 25% the motor is at 4 times the amps then the battery. The faster the motors rotate the higher the duty cycle.
@Eboosted if your brakes lock now too early at low and mid speed then lower your Motor min.
Iâm not sure which point of mine youâre saying is wrong here
@Ackmaniac I lowered battery min (regen) from -10A to -8A and increased motor min (regen) from -40A to -50A and itâs braking much better at high and mid speeds still very controllable, does this sounds correct to you?
Then the motor min was simply too low for you. If you raise the battery min now to -10 again you should get stronger brakes at high speed. At low speed they will as they are right now. So i recommend to only change one value at a time. Otherwise you get wrong impressions.
@Maxid can you tell me how would it exceed the current if the series wire is not placed in the mid of the pack, coz im building a carver too, and my battery pack is inspired by whitepony (4 strips) and connect them in series at the end part (havenât connect them yet, still waiting for braid flat wire)⌠This will be my first build, i have no idead about the wire should be place in the middle.
@Randyc1 posted a good illustration further up http://www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/trampa-street-carver-12s4p-dual-6374-kaly-motormounts-and-enclosure/24597/16?u=maxid
with 4 nickel strips your series connection should be able to handle 60A continuously (15A per nickel strip) - that should be plenty so it doesnât matter where you connect the wires. Make sure to put some spots of solder on the last nickel strip before you spot weld it to the other ones - will make your life a lot easier 
Yes i agree with 4 stips itâs fine,⌠1 not enough.
So its good with 4 strips, its with the capacity of the strip⌠Now i get it, thanks man! And also for the tipâŚ
@Eboosted what tape did you use between the segments. Plan is to do something similar, just waiting on @Kaly to get back to me with a time frame and paypal for the enclosure.
Kaly sent 3M all weather seal tape to hold the enclosures together however Iâll change it to silicone membranes and double sided tape as soon as the membrane arrives, much more pro
wow, he is full service. did he send the threaded insert and hardware to mount the enclosure as well. How thick is the silicon membrane. - thanks for the info