Yes, I agree on NOT having anything on the top but let’s make an exception this time, the button goes pretty deep to unlock the lid. I’ll make sure it’s not getting pressed by your foot /toes.
I don’t think it needs switch,charging port or battery monitor,just pop it open and charge the battery.
I’ll have to think about this, design something like nose guard?
Maybe, adding mini drop through for this?
Yea a slightly lower deck for a nice feeling ride and inclosure to hide it all would be really nice. I’m trying to get a blank drop through to try and make mine lol ok a lot nicer. But carbon is just a big yes for the cosmetic look.
Titanium or plastic would be a good material, I think. That’s what rollerblade ‘grind plates’ are made of and those take a ton of abuse and are designed for a similar function (to get scratched).
They could fit on like those Dell laptop snap-on colorful cases did. However it’s attached, it should be made to not alter the overall shape of the board. The board should be made ‘thinner/narrower’ where they attach so that when the ‘grind plates’ are attached on the ends of the tails, they blend into the board.
Not that you’d ever really need to replace them, but if you wanted to sell the board and make it look as fresh as possible, you could put new ones on. I imagine plastic ones would run like $15 MSRP for a pair. Production cost could be under a dollar.
If it’s a spring loaded button or a tubular style lock, I’d be worried about dirt and grit getting in there and making it stick or not function smoothly. Debris interfering with a mechanism like this would only be worse if it were located on the bottom of the board.
Your design looks amazing.
I really like the battery display, even if it’s not smart and only approximates when not under load. It’s also nice to read the board’s battery level without turning on the remote and syncing the two.
I would definitely want a charging port. I’d be charging this around 5-10 times a week. Removing the battery each time would be a PITA. It’d also increase the likelihood of a user error messing up an internal component by accessing the guts so often.
Somebody needs to add a ‘chip’ on these eboards like a Cycle Analyst found on ebikes so these battery displays are more accurate. They give accurate readings of watt-hours/percentage left in the battery, as well as tons of other nerdy info.
Thanks for tips.
I spent few minutes this morning designing something simple. It could be a handle as well.
The plan was that the lid is shaped in opposite direction of the concave so that once it gets pressed(flexes like spring loaded), it locks in place in the latch and sealed on the edges but I decided not to do it, I chose the safety over the convenience.
And yes, I agree that it could be interfered too. I wouldn’t take the chance.
And Since the latches are removed, now it has longer compartment and the lid will be bolted in place and Yes, it needs charging port and etc.
Oh yeah, second that Cycle Analyst.
See you in a few days! Lol! Whats the printing time for each cut? 30hs+?
This is one third(10 inches tall) I was able to mange it under 20 hours to print with the settings(layers,height,nozzle size,speed etc).
I need to order some sand papers. The big sanding job is waiting for me after this 
Nice, that’s not too bad! And if you’re gonna sand it and finish it you dont need much more resolution than 0.4 layers and probably 120mm/s speeds 
I am using 0.6mm nozzle with 0.3 height.I am more worry about it might tip over while printing.
I hope there is sand-able filament available soon. it isn’t fun sanding PLA. I will have to spray tons of primer to get the finish.
Yeah, its a pain! I use a dewalt random orbit sander and it really eats that PLA away, its a thing of beauty
Still think a spring mechanism or something other than screws would be ideal. The insane vibrations of a skateboard are not ideal for screws, especially ones that might be removed fairly often. Even with thread lock these screws come loose on my Raptor.
you think there is a spring mechanism more robust than dedicated screws?
The latch that I was going to use is for the race cars holding bumpers and bigger version is for the hood. Once the claw grabs the ball never comes off from the vibrations. The spring is only be used for helping lifting the lid up.
But I still think that it needs more than two and it’s not cheap.
