X7 - Jet Invasion Voyager-X | Evolve trucks | Dual 6368 140kv | Custom 10S6p 35E | Focbox Unity | GearDrive |

X7 - A board with a range of 138 km

I built my first board with gear drive 2 years ago, more on that here:

A year later I built another board, with a larger set of batteries, a modified drive and larger motors …

I wanted to build a long-range board that would look like a standard EVOLVE but would have above-average parameters (range, acceleration, speed)

Below is some information about this compilation.

Parts list:

  • Jet Invasion Voyager-X
  • Evolve Trucks
  • ABEC 107 and TB110
  • FlipSky 6368 140kv
  • 10S6P Samsung 35E
  • Focbox Unity
  • Benchwheel DIY Remote & Receiver
  • Enclosure Evolve 2 gen (2 pcs)
  • Bluetooth Metr Pro module and metr app
  • Gear Drive

DECK I used Jet Invasion Voyager-X because I had it in stock … and I don’t regret it, it’s sensational, it has perfect dimensions, hardness, concave, etc.

ENCLOSURE I wanted the Enclosure to be durable, hermetic and low, and I installed two EVOLVE 2 gen Enclosure, more precisely 1 + 1/4.

Battery I chose Samsung 35E batteries, of which I built a single layer 10S6P battery pack Theoretical capacity is 20700Ah (765Wh) Real capacity 620Wh, measured with a METR (battery discharge from 42V to 31V) I didn’t mount the BMS, it didn’t fit in the enclosure and in my opinion it is not necessary,

ESC I installed Focbox Unity, it works perfectly, I additionally installed the MERT PRO module, this is a phenomenal addition to boards, @rpasichnyk does a great job

Remote & Receiver I chose the Benchwheel DIY Remote & Receiver, it is ugly and not ergonomic, but works long on one charge and is reliable

Motors and transmission

The board uses three different drives configurations

  1. Racerstar 5065 140kV motors + Gear drive + ABEC 107 wheels

  2. FlipSky H6368 140kV motors + Gear drive + ABEC 107 and TB110 wheels

  3. H6368 190kV motors + 15/66 belt transmission + AT Evolve 7.5 inch wheels

The change of drive takes 3-5 minutes

I’m replacing the whole set: hanger with drive motors and wheels, motors have no hall sensors connected

Ad1. Configuration 1 - is the most effective.

10 - 11 June 2019 I drove 138km on a one charge

The board weighs up to 10 kg, I weigh about 90 kg, 100 kg in total, I drove very cautiously, soft start, minimum braking, I tried not to exceed 20km/h,

Data from the METR below,

I divided the measurements into several, unfortunately the first measurement has an error, I drove distance of about 22km (not 2820.2km :D)

The error was caused by breaking the bluetooth connection with the phone





The battery capacity is 620Wh Power consumption at a constant speed of 20km / h tp 4.2Wh / km, the theoretical reach of the board could be 147 km :wink:

Ad2. - my favorite (most used) :smile:

My favorite configuration is H6368 140kV motors + Gear drive + ABEC 107 wheels

The board in this configuration has phenomenal acceleration, maximum speed is 47km / h, range about 120 km

Unfortunately, the board’s range is smaller by about 12-13%, but the gear drive is quieter

The last addition to the X7 is the DAVEGA X telemetry module by @janpom… Phenomenal and very practical gadget

Ad3 - The most universal

I have a few boards with pneumatic wheels, but I wanted a board with pneumatic wheels and a large range, so instead of building another board, I decided to replace the drive in X7

I installed the motor mounts with idlers and 66t standard evolve pulleys with 7.5 inch tires

The range of the board in this configuration is about 60km

Of course, in this configuration I can use different wheels and belt transmissions but it doesn’t make much sense so I only use 7.5 inch wheels


Some amazing builds… well photographed too.

You didn’t say makes these gear drive?

@rpasichnyk please help to fix the meta app displaying on forum again.


How are you charging your battery if you’re not using a bms?

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I use power supplies with voltage control



Would you mind explaining how you do this? i understand you aren’t balance charging. what voltage do you charge at? do you have to adjust the voltage while charging? do you need to limit the current going to the battery? Thanks

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In the RD6006 power supply it is the one with the display, I set the maximum charging voltage and charging current. After charging, the power supply turns off

Usually it charges the package with 40V and 6A (40V is about 80% of the battery capacity) If I plan a longer route, I charge batteries up to 42V

This second power supply is basically a charger for the Liion 10S, the charging current is 4A, Like any “intelligent” charger, it controls the maximum charging voltage

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Using no bms means cells will ultimately be unbalanced no?


This will lead to a fire after a number of charges, if the cells aren’t perfectly/chemically identical (none are), they will get out of balance and a row of cells will over charge when the lower cells are still charging.


This can happen with low quality salvage cells for sure. With new, high quality, brand-name cells, they will tend to keep balance very well for a good while. This takes into account a very well made battery with good spot welds. It is kind of rare for people to not run a BMS, but sometimes what they do is just open the board up once a month or so, do a voltage check, and if the cells are all still balanced, you’re good. If they’re a bit out of balance, you can connect leads up to them and re-balance.

I find this is more common in Lipo mountainboards though where the batteries already have balance wires on them and are easy to access with a hobby charger. Which ironically at the same time, the lipos are more likely to go out of balance than the 18650-style liion cells.

I still will always run a BMS but this is sometimes what people do.

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happens to them all, even new quality ones. no chemical cells are 100% matched. just give it time and enough charges.


Sure but they can last a good while before that happens. Regardless I still recommmend a BMS, but I guess in this build the space was too small

You’re both right If a single battery fails, there is no voltage control and several cells can be damaged by overcharging or discharging

But I have boards with a 18650 battery pack that are over 3 years old and the voltages are equal (same). Note that in X7 there is a 10s6p packet, so the 6 batteries are connected in parallel, so the voltage equalizes between them.

Sometimes it is better not to use BMS than to use poor quality BMS.

In one of my boards, BMS damaged the battery pack …

It’s not that I don’t like BMS and I think it’s not necessary. but in my opinion, a small BMS is enough only to charge the battery, … for me, the perfect solution is, for example, FlexiBMS Lite + Devega telemetry module, I like to have full control


Yeah FlexiBMS is awesome, I want to get one of my hands on those eventually. The lite one is so small too!


Awesome build! Looks amazing!

Is that BMW Street Carver yours? How is it? Any plans to electrify?! :smiling_imp:

Looks like TeeGee is taking a whack at it! https://www.new.teamgee.com/

Thanks a lot :smiley:

Yes, the BMW is mine, I have 2 of these boards but I won’t modify them … it’s a historic boards

I saw this boards with a different brand, I don’t think it drove well. This boards be very heavy and stiff … these boards only look good but they ride poorly


Great looking board If you are ever interested I might be interested in one love the look

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Configs 2 and 3 look AMAZING. So CLEAN! Fantastic inspiration for my build!

And I’m completely ok with bumping this thread, it needs way more attention :wink:

I like you innovation and claiming with proofs is also very impressive , but I have a question what’s the minimum average of that board in a single day?

I use my bms externally. All you have to do is have all the balance wires soldered on to the bms plug on the board and when ready to charge you plug the BMS balance plug into the BMS and for the wires and the BMS you have the charger plugged into a female charge port wire where the black wire goes to the p- wire of the BMS red goes to red of male charger port that plugs into charge port on board. The black from that goes to the b- wire of the BMS,so your kind of like running the BMS on series of the negative line whilst having it plugged into the balance wire which you have accessable on your board. Therefore it is a charge only BMS and not necessary to keep on board.